Stockholm 3-day itinerary

Start in Gamla Stan: cobblestone lanes, painted townhouses, and the Royal Palace (180 SEK). Walk Västerlånggatan, find the narrowest alley Mårten Trotzigs Gränd (90cm wide), and admire Stortorget square, scene of the 1520 Stockholm Bloodbath. The Nobel Prize Museum (140 SEK) on the square tells the story of the prize winners. Coffee at Café Sten Sansen or Chokladkoppen on Stortorget.

Walk or ferry to Djurgården island. The Vasa Museum (190 SEK) houses a fully intact 17th-century warship: 69 metres long, 95% original timber, covered in 700 carved sculptures. It sank 20 minutes into its maiden voyage in 1628 and was raised in 1961. Then walk through the island, with its leafy paths, waterfront cafes, and Rosendals Trädgård (organic garden cafe, sandwiches 85–110 SEK).

Walk to Södermalm's Monteliusvägen, a clifftop path with the best sunset view in Stockholm, overlooking Gamla Stan, City Hall, and Lake Mälaren. Then dinner in SoFo (South of Folkungagatan), the hippest area. Try Kalf & Hansen on Mariatorget (Swedish comfort food, 145–195 SEK) or Nytorget Urban Deli (all-day brasserie, 155–225 SEK). Drinks at Omnipollos Hatt (craft beer and pizza).

Tour Stockholm City Hall (Stadshuset, 130 SEK), the venue for the Nobel Prize banquet every December 10th. The Blue Hall (not actually blue), Golden Hall (covered in 18 million gold mosaic tiles), and the tower with panoramic views (60 SEK extra, summer only) are stunning. Walk along the waterfront to Riddarholmen island for views and the medieval Riddarholmskyrkan (70 SEK).

Back to Djurgården for the ABBA Museum (260 SEK), surprisingly excellent even for non-fans, with holograms, costumes, and an interactive experience where you perform with the band. Then Skansen (220 SEK in summer), the world's first open-air museum (1891), with historic buildings from across Sweden, Nordic animals (wolves, bears, moose), and traditional crafts. Lunch at a Skansen cafe.

Explore Östermalm, Stockholm's elegant eastern neighbourhood. Östermalms Saluhall (indoor food hall, reopened after renovation) has gourmet Swedish food stalls: herring, reindeer, Swedish meatballs, and smörgåsbord. Dinner at Sturehof (Swedish seafood classic since 1897, mains 195–345 SEK) or pizza at Boqueria on Jakobsbergsgatan. Cocktails at Tjoget in Hornstull or Pharmarium in Gamla Stan.

Visit Fotografiska (195 SEK) on Södermalm's waterfront, one of the world's largest photography museums with rotating exhibitions that are consistently world-class. The top-floor restaurant has panoramic harbour views and serves excellent brunch (165–195 SEK). The gift shop is one of Stockholm's best for design items. Allow 2 hours for exhibitions.

Walk along Södermalm to Hornstull, a waterfront neighbourhood with indie cafes, vintage shops, and the Hornstulls Marknad (weekend flea market, free entry). For Swedish design souvenirs, visit Designtorget (affordable Swedish design), Granit (Scandi homeware), or Acne Studios archive store for discounted fashion. Lunch at Hornhuset or Meatballs for the People (meatballs, 155 SEK).

Farewell dinner with traditional Swedish food. Pelikan on Blekingegatan (husmanskost, traditional Swedish home cooking since 1904, mains 175–265 SEK) for meatballs, herring, and Janssons Frestelse (potato gratin). Or Tradition on Österlånggatan in Gamla Stan for smörgåsbord. Final drink at Kvarteret on Renstjärnsgata or Fotografiska rooftop bar.