Copenhagen 3-day itinerary

Start at Nyhavn, the colourful 17th-century harbour that's Denmark's most photographed spot. Hans Christian Andersen lived at No. 20 and wrote his first fairy tales here. Walk to Amalienborg Palace, home of the Danish royal family. Catch the changing of the Royal Guard at noon (they march from Rosenborg Castle). Cross to Frederiks Kirke (the Marble Church): free entry, climb the dome for 35 DKK.

Walk through Kastellet, the beautifully preserved star-shaped fortress from 1662, surrounded by moats and tree-lined ramparts. The Little Mermaid statue is a 5-minute walk (small but iconic). Then visit the Design Museum Danmark (120 DKK) for Danish design from chairs to ceramics, explaining why everything in Copenhagen looks so good. Lunch at the museum cafe or Torvehallerne food hall (smørrebrød 65–95 DKK).

Head to Vesterbro, Copenhagen's coolest neighbourhood centred on the Kødbyen (Meatpacking District). Still-functioning meat warehouses sit alongside cocktail bars, restaurants, and galleries. Dinner at Kødbyens Mad & Marked (street food, 50–80 DKK) or Fleisch (burgers, 95 DKK). Drinks at Jolene (craft beer and club in a former warehouse) or Bakken in Kødbyen (late-night bar).

Cross to Christianshavn, Copenhagen's canal-lined neighbourhood often called the "Venice of the North." Climb the spiral staircase outside the spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Saviour, 65 DKK): 400 steps winding around the outside of the golden spire with increasingly vertiginous views. Not for the faint-hearted. Coffee at Prolog on Refshalevej.

Walk to Freetown Christiania, the self-governing commune established in 1971 on an abandoned military base. 850 residents live in handbuilt houses surrounded by nature. The Nemoland area has vegetarian restaurants and a lake. The Loppen concert venue hosts indie bands. Morgenstedet serves organic lunch (60–80 DKK). Photography is restricted on Pusher Street, so respect the signs.

Head to Reffen Copenhagen Street Food (seasonal, May–October) on Refshaleøen, an industrial island turned food market with 40+ stalls, water views, and fire pits. Global cuisine from 50–90 DKK. Or Broens Gadekøkken near Nyhavn for waterfront street food year-round. After dinner, walk along the harbour. Islands Brygge Havnebadet (harbour bath) is a free open-air swimming pool right in the harbour.

Bike to Nørrebro, Copenhagen's most diverse and lively neighbourhood. Start at Assistens Cemetery where Hans Christian Andersen and Søren Kierkegaard are buried. Danes picnic and sunbathe among the graves, which is completely normal here. Walk Jægersborggade, a street of independent shops, ceramics studios, and speciality coffee (Coffee Collective No. 2). Lunch at Grød (gourmet porridge, 65–80 DKK).

Cycle to the Latin Quarter, Copenhagen's oldest university district around Frue Plads. Climb Rundetaarn (40 DKK), a spiral ramp to a rooftop observatory with panoramic views. Browse the bookshops and vintage stores along Studiestræde and Larsbjørnsstræde. Visit Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek (125 DKK, free Tuesdays), an extraordinary art museum with a stunning winter garden atrium.

Farewell dinner in the city. For budget, try Dalle Valle (all-you-can-eat, 119 DKK) or Kebabistan on Nørrebrogade (best kebab in the city, 55 DKK). For a splurge, Høst on Nørre Farimagsgade serves New Nordic cuisine in a beautiful rustic space (3-course 450 DKK). End with a canal-side drink at La Banchina, a tiny wooden harbour bar where you can swim and sauna.