Perito Moreno 3-day itinerary

Start with a walk along El Calafate's lakefront promenade on Lago Argentino — the water is a milky turquoise from glacial sediment. Visit Laguna Nimez nature reserve (ARS 5,000) on the edge of town, a wetland sanctuary with flamingos, black-necked swans, and upland geese against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. Breakfast at Borges y Álvarez Libro-Bar (ARS 5,000–8,000) — a bookshop café.

Visit the Glaciarium (ARS 12,000) — an excellent ice museum 6km from town explaining Patagonian glaciology, climate science, and the formation of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. The ice bar inside serves drinks in glasses made of glacial ice (ARS 8,000 including a cocktail). Walk Avenida Libertador for outdoor gear shops, chocolate shops, and artisan craft stores selling guanaco wool products.

Dinner at La Zaina (ARS 14,000–22,000) for creative Patagonian cuisine — smoked trout, wild boar, and calafate berry desserts. The calafate berry is the town's namesake — legend says if you eat it, you will return to Patagonia. Drinks at Shackleton Bar for local craft beers (ARS 3,000–5,000 per pint) or La Zorra Taproom for Patagonian IPAs and stouts.

Depart El Calafate at 8am for Los Glaciares National Park (80km, ARS 15,000–25,000 return transfer). Park entry is ARS 25,000 for foreigners — pay in cash or card at the gate. Start with the upper boardwalks for panoramic views — the glacier stretches 5km wide and 30km long, feeding into Lago Argentino. The ice is intensely blue in morning light, with deep crevasses and seracs (ice towers) visible from above.

Descend to the lower boardwalks for close-up views of the glacier's towering ice wall — 70 metres of blue and white ice rising from the milky lake. This is where calving happens — chunks ranging from refrigerator-sized to building-sized crash into the water with deafening booms. The boardwalk system extends several kilometres with viewing platforms at multiple angles. Bring binoculars to spot condors and austral parakeets in the surrounding lenga forest.

Back in El Calafate, celebrate with cordero patagónico at La Tablita (ARS 18,000–28,000) — lamb roasted on a crucero over open flames for four hours. Order the lamb shoulder for two with a bottle of Patagonian Malbec (ARS 6,000–12,000). After dinner, walk to the lakefront — Patagonia's minimal light pollution makes for extraordinary stargazing. The Southern Cross is visible year-round.

Book the mini-trekking experience (ARS 80,000–120,000 plus park entry, Hielo y Aventura operator) — a boat crosses the lake to the glacier base, then guides lead you onto the ice itself with crampons. Walk on blue ice ridges, peer into crevasses, and drink whisky chilled with thousand-year-old glacial ice. The trek lasts 90 minutes on the ice and is suitable for anyone with reasonable fitness. This is the highlight of Patagonia.

Take the Nautical Safari boat (ARS 30,000–45,000) that approaches the glacier's south face by water — you see the full 70-metre ice wall from lake level, with icebergs floating around the boat. Alternatively, guided kayaking on Lago Argentino (ARS 40,000–60,000) paddles among icebergs within view of the glacier. Both options offer perspectives impossible from the boardwalks alone.

Final evening in El Calafate. Dinner at Casimiro Biguá (ARS 16,000–26,000) for king crab (centolla) from Tierra del Fuego or Patagonian lamb ravioli. Walk the Avenida Libertador one last time — pick up calafate berry jam and Patagonian chocolate as souvenirs. End at Borges y Álvarez with a calafate berry gin and tonic and a good book about Patagonia.