Nice 3-day itinerary

Walk the Promenade des Anglais along the Baie des Anges, the turquoise Mediterranean on one side, Belle Époque architecture on the other. Turn into Vieux Nice and explore the Cours Saleya market (Tue–Sun until 1pm) for flowers, produce, olives, lavender, and socca vendors. Pick up a pan bagnat (Niçois tuna sandwich, €5–7) and people-watch from a café terrace on the market square.

Climb or take the free elevator to Colline du Château, the Castle Hill park with panoramic views over old town rooftops, the port, and the Baie des Anges. Shaded paths, a waterfall, and ruins of the medieval castle. Descend to Port Lympia, a photogenic harbour with pastel-coloured buildings reflected in the water. Walk along Quai des Deux Emmanuels to the Plage du Castel for a swim.

Dinner at Chez Pipo on Rue Bavastro: legendary socca (chickpea flatbread) from a wood-fired oven since 1923, served with local rosé by the carafe (€5–8). Then wander the narrow lanes of Vieux Nice, where lively bars line Rue de la Préfecture and Rue de l'Abbaye. Try Wayne's Bar on Rue de la Préfecture for a rowdy international crowd, or the more local Cave Wilson for natural wines.

Bus 15 or 22 to Cimiez, Nice's hilltop neighbourhood. Visit the Musée Matisse (free) in a 17th-century Genoese villa surrounded by olive groves. The collection spans his entire career with paintings, sculptures, and paper cut-outs. Next door, the Monastery of Cimiez has a beautiful garden with panoramic views and the Roman ruins of the ancient Cemenelum thermal baths.

Head down to the beach. Nice's beaches are famously pebbly (not sandy), so bring a towel or rent a sunbed at a private beach (€15–20/day including mattress). The public sections between private beaches are free. Swim in the crystal-clear water, where visibility is remarkable. For lunch, try Castel Plage (splurge, mains €20–30) right on the water below Castle Hill, or grab a pizza slice from one of the Vieux Nice takeaways.

Stroll Place Masséna at dusk, when Nice's main square comes alive with the Jaume Plensa "Conversation" light sculptures. Walk up to the Libération quarter around the Gare du Sud, a rapidly gentrifying neighbourhood with wine bars, craft cocktails, and the excellent Libération market (mornings). Dinner at La Merenda on Rue Raoul Bosio: no phone, no website, just extraordinary Niçois cooking by a former Michelin-starred chef (mains €14–22).

Take bus 82 to Èze Village (30 minutes, €1.50), a medieval eagle's-nest village perched 427m above the sea. The Jardin Exotique at the summit (€7) has cactus gardens with staggering coastal views. Walk down the Nietzsche Path (the philosopher walked it daily) through pine forests to Èze-sur-Mer. Then train to Monaco (10 minutes, €4.10) to see the Casino Monte-Carlo exterior, Prince's Palace, and the Oceanographic Museum.

Walk Monaco's streets past luxury yachts and supercars. The Grand Prix circuit winds through the city. Free to enter the Casino Monte-Carlo lobby (gaming rooms: €17). On the way back, stop at Villefranche-sur-Mer, a pastel-coloured fishing village with one of the Côte d'Azur's only sandy beaches. Swim in the sheltered bay with the Chapel of Saint-Pierre (decorated by Jean Cocteau) overlooking the harbour.

Back in Nice for a final sunset on the Promenade, where the sky performs differently every night. Farewell dinner at Le Comptoir du Marché on Rue du Marché: excellent bistro food using market produce, with a short but perfectly curated menu (mains €16–24). Or keep it simple at Lou Pilha Leva on Rue du Collet, a legendary Niçois street-food counter serving socca, pissaladière, and farcis to a standing crowd.