Nice 3-day itinerary

Walk the Promenade des Anglais along the Baie des Anges — the turquoise Mediterranean on one side, Belle Époque architecture on the other. Turn into Vieux Nice and explore the Cours Saleya market (Tue–Sun until 1pm) — flowers, produce, olives, lavender, and socca vendors. Pick up a pan bagnat (Niçois tuna sandwich, €5–7) and people-watch from a café terrace on the market square.

Climb or take the free elevator to Colline du Château — Castle Hill park with panoramic views over old town rooftops, the port, and the Baie des Anges. Shaded paths, a waterfall, and ruins of the medieval castle. Descend to Port Lympia — a photogenic harbour with pastel-coloured buildings reflected in the water. Walk along Quai des Deux Emmanuels to the Plage du Castel for a swim.

Dinner at Chez Pipo on Rue Bavastro — legendary socca (chickpea flatbread) from a wood-fired oven since 1923, served with local rosé by the carafe (€5–8). Then wander the narrow lanes of Vieux Nice — lively bars line Rue de la Préfecture and Rue de l'Abbaye. Try Wayne's Bar on Rue de la Préfecture for a rowdy international crowd, or the more local Cave Wilson for natural wines.

Bus 15 or 22 to Cimiez — Nice's hilltop neighbourhood. Visit the Musée Matisse (free) in a 17th-century Genoese villa surrounded by olive groves. The collection spans his entire career with paintings, sculptures, and paper cut-outs. Next door, the Monastery of Cimiez has a beautiful garden with panoramic views and the Roman ruins of the ancient Cemenelum thermal baths.

Head down to the beach. Nice's beaches are famously pebbly (not sandy) — bring a towel or rent a sunbed at a private beach (€15–20/day including mattress). The public sections between private beaches are free. Swim in the crystal-clear water — visibility is remarkable. For lunch, try Castel Plage (splurge, mains €20–30) right on the water below Castle Hill, or grab a pizza slice from one of the Vieux Nice takeaways.

Stroll Place Masséna at dusk — Nice's main square comes alive with the Jaume Plensa "Conversation" light sculptures. Walk up to the Libération quarter around the Gare du Sud — a rapidly gentrifying neighbourhood with wine bars, craft cocktails, and the excellent Libération market (mornings). Dinner at La Merenda on Rue Raoul Bosio — no phone, no website, just extraordinary Niçois cooking by a former Michelin-starred chef (mains €14–22).

Take bus 82 to Èze Village (30 minutes, €1.50) — a medieval eagle's-nest village perched 427m above the sea. The Jardin Exotique at the summit (€7) has cactus gardens with staggering coastal views. Walk down the Nietzsche Path (the philosopher walked it daily) through pine forests to Èze-sur-Mer. Then train to Monaco (10 minutes, €4.10) — see the Casino Monte-Carlo exterior, Prince's Palace, and the Oceanographic Museum.

Walk Monaco's streets past luxury yachts and supercars — the Grand Prix circuit winds through the city. Free to enter the Casino Monte-Carlo lobby (gaming rooms: €17). On the way back, stop at Villefranche-sur-Mer — a pastel-coloured fishing village with one of the Côte d'Azur's only sandy beaches. Swim in the sheltered bay with the Chapel of Saint-Pierre (decorated by Jean Cocteau) overlooking the harbour.

Back in Nice for a final sunset on the Promenade — the sky performs differently every night. Farewell dinner at Le Comptoir du Marché on Rue du Marché — excellent bistro food using market produce, with a short but perfectly curated menu (mains €16–24). Or keep it simple at Lou Pilha Leva on Rue du Collet — a legendary Niçois street-food counter serving socca, pissaladière, and farcis to a standing crowd.