Delhi 7-day itinerary

Start at Jama Masjid — India's largest mosque from 1656, with capacity for 25,000. Climb the southern minaret (₹300) for Old Delhi rooftop views. Plunge into Chandni Chowk — one of Asia's oldest markets. Breakfast at Paranthe Wali Gali — stuffed parathas fried in ghee since 1875 (₹60). The narrow lanes are a sensory overload of spices, silver, fabric, and humanity.

Walk to the Red Fort (₹600) — Shah Jahan's 1648 palace of red sandstone walls, marble apartments, and Mughal gardens. The Diwan-i-Khas once held the Peacock Throne. Audio guide (₹150) brings the Mughal, British, and independence-era history to life. Then take a cycle rickshaw through Old Delhi's lanes for the controlled chaos that defines this city.

The greatest street food concentration in India. Try: nihari at Haji Shabrati (₹120), kebabs at Karim's (since 1913, ₹150–250), jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala (₹60/plate), and kulfi falooda at Giani's (₹80). Each lane specialises in a different food perfected over generations. The evening atmosphere under naked light bulbs and neon is magical and overwhelming in equal measure.

Start early at Humayun's Tomb (₹600) — the 1570 garden tomb that inspired the Taj Mahal. The symmetrical red-and-white sandstone mausoleum in Persian-style gardens is Delhi's most beautiful monument. The reflecting pools at dawn mirror the dome perfectly. The recently restored gardens are immaculate. Allow 1.5–2 hours to explore the complex including the surrounding tombs.

Walk to Nizamuddin Dargah — the Sufi shrine of Hazrat Nizamuddin Auliya, one of Delhi's most spiritually charged sites. The marble courtyard, qawwali singers, and devotees creating an atmosphere of devotion that transcends religion. The surrounding lanes have famous biryani stalls — try Ghalib Kebab Corner (₹150–200). Visit the nearby tomb of Mughal poet Amir Khusro.

Visit India Gate at sunset — Delhi's war memorial illuminated against the twilight. Walk Kartavya Path for the grand government vista. The evening ice cream vendors and families picnicking on the lawns make it festive. Dinner at Bengali Market nearby — the entire lane is devoted to chaat (Indian street snacks). Try golgappa (₹40), aloo tikki (₹50), and dahi bhalla (₹60). The flavour explosions are unmatched.

Visit Akshardham (free, no electronics allowed) — an extraordinary modern Hindu temple with 20,000 carved figures and exhibitions. Allow 2–3 hours. Then auto to the Lotus Temple (free) — a Baha'i worship house with 27 marble lotus petals. Both represent the spiritual architecture that India does like nowhere else. The scale and detail of Akshardham in particular will astound you.

Stroll Lodhi Garden — a park with 15th-century Mughal tombs scattered among manicured lawns and ancient trees. Free and peaceful. Walk to Khan Market — Delhi's most upscale shopping area with bookshops (Bahrisons, Full Circle), boutiques, and contemporary restaurants. Lunch at Big Chill Cafe (₹400–600) or Andhra Bhawan canteen for an authentic unlimited Andhra thali (₹200).

Metro to Hauz Khas Village — Delhi's bohemian neighbourhood with art galleries, boutiques, and rooftop bars surrounding a medieval lake and 13th-century ruins. The contrast of ancient and modern is quintessentially Delhi. Watch the sunset from a lakeside cafe, then explore the nightlife — craft beer at Social Offline (₹300–400 for a pint), rooftop bars, and live music venues line the narrow lanes.

Take the Gatimaan Express from Hazrat Nizamuddin station — India's fastest semi-high-speed train reaching Agra in 1 hour 40 minutes (₹755 AC chair). Arrive and auto-rickshaw to the Taj Mahal (₹1,100 foreigners, includes water and shoe covers). Enter through the main gate — the first glimpse of the Taj through the gateway arch is the most awe-inspiring moment in all of travel. White marble, symmetry, and devotion made physical.

Walk to Agra Fort (₹600) — the Mughal red sandstone fortress with marble palaces inside. Shah Jahan was imprisoned here, gazing at the Taj Mahal he built for his wife — the view from the Musamman Burj window is heartbreaking and beautiful. Then auto to Itimad-ud-Daulah ("Baby Taj", ₹210) — a smaller tomb covered in marble inlay work that previews the Taj's techniques. Lunch at a rooftop restaurant with Taj views (₹200–400).

Cross the river to Mehtab Bagh (₹300) — the Mughal garden with the most famous sunset view of the Taj Mahal across the Yamuna River. The marble dome turning pink and gold in the evening light is the photograph everyone travels to India for. Take the evening Gatimaan Express back to Delhi (departs 5:50pm). Dinner at Delhi station or your neighbourhood — you'll still be processing what you saw.

Metro to Qutub Minar (₹600) — a 73m victory tower from 1193, the world's tallest brick minaret. The surrounding complex has the mysterious Iron Pillar (1,600 years without rusting), ruins of India's first mosque, and the unfinished Alai Minar. The sandstone carvings on the tower are extraordinary — Quranic inscriptions mixed with Hindu decorative motifs reflecting Delhi's layered history.

Walk through Mehrauli Archaeological Park (free) — a sprawling area adjacent to Qutub Minar with Mughal tombs, Sultanate ruins, and Balban's Tomb (India's first true arch). Few tourists venture here but the ruins are atmospheric and fascinating. Lunch at nearby Olive Bar & Kitchen (₹800–1,200) — a Mediterranean restaurant in a converted haveli with garden seating, popular with Delhi's creative crowd.

Visit Dilli Haat (₹30) — a permanent market with handicrafts and food from every Indian state. Each stall represents a region — Rajasthani textiles, Kashmiri shawls, Kerala spices. Food stalls serve regional dishes from ₹100–200. Then walk to Sarojini Nagar Market — Delhi's most famous street market for cheap fashion (export surplus from ₹100 per item). The haggling atmosphere is intense and fun.

Visit the National Museum (₹650 foreigners) — India's largest museum with collections spanning 5,000 years: Harappan civilisation artefacts, Mughal miniature paintings, Buddhist Gandhara sculptures, and tribal art. Allow 2–3 hours. Then walk the grand Rajpath/Kartavya Path — the ceremonial boulevard lined with government buildings, designed by Lutyens in the 1930s.

Explore the National Gallery of Modern Art (₹500 foreigners) for modern Indian art, or visit the Crafts Museum (₹200) — an open-air museum with full-scale village houses from across India and artisans demonstrating traditional crafts. Watch weavers, potters, and textile printers at work. Then browse the indie art galleries of Lodhi Art District — an entire neighbourhood with commissioned street murals.

For Delhi's modern nightlife, head to CyberHub in Gurugram (metro + shuttle) — a restaurant and bar complex popular with young professionals. Craft beer at Raasta (₹350/pint), cocktails at Farzi Cafe (₹500), or dinner at Dhaba by Claridges for elevated North Indian (₹600–800). Alternatively, stay central and explore Greater Kailash-2 (GK2) M Block Market for bars and restaurants.

Visit Khari Baoli — Asia's largest wholesale spice market near Chandni Chowk. Mountains of turmeric, chilli, cardamom, saffron, and dried fruits fill the narrow lanes. The colours and aromas are overwhelming. Buy spice mixes, saffron (₹200–400/gram), and masala boxes as souvenirs. Also explore the adjoining dried fruit and nut market — almonds, pistachios, and cashews at wholesale prices.

Final shopping at Janpath Market for souvenirs — brass ornaments, scarves, Rajasthani puppets, and jewellery. Haggling is essential; start at 30% of asking price. Or visit Fabindia (modern Indian fashion with traditional textiles) or Cottage Emporium on Janpath (government-run, fixed prices, every Indian craft). Pack your bags — everything is lighter and cheaper than you feared.

For a final Delhi dinner: if budget allows, Indian Accent in The Lodhi (tasting menu ₹4,500) is ranked among Asia's best restaurants — modern Indian cuisine that will redefine everything you thought about Indian food. For a humbler farewell, return to Old Delhi for one last kebab at Karim's and jalebi at Chandni Chowk. Delhi rewards those who embrace its chaos with food, history, and stories that last forever.