Delhi 3-day itinerary

Start at Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque, built in 1656 with capacity for 25,000 worshippers. The courtyard is immense. Climb the southern minaret (₹300) for views of Old Delhi's rooftops stretching endlessly. Then plunge into Chandni Chowk, one of the oldest markets in Asia. Breakfast at Paranthe Wali Gali (Paratha Lane): stuffed parathas fried in ghee from ₹60, a tradition since 1875.

Walk to the Red Fort (₹600), Shah Jahan's 1648 palace complex of red sandstone walls, marble apartments, and Mughal gardens. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) once held the legendary Peacock Throne. Audio guide recommended (₹150) for understanding the layers of Mughal, British, and Indian history. Then take a cycle rickshaw through the Old Delhi lanes. The controlled chaos is exhilarating.

Return to Old Delhi for a self-guided food walk, the greatest street food concentration in India. Try: nihari at Haji Shabrati (slow-cooked buffalo stew, ₹120), kebabs at Karim's (since 1913, ₹150–250), jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala near Chandni Chowk metro (₹60/plate), and kulfi falooda at Giani's (₹80). Each lane specialises in a different food. The evening atmosphere is magical.

Start at Humayun's Tomb (₹600), the 1570 garden tomb that was the prototype for the Taj Mahal. The symmetrical red-and-white sandstone mausoleum set in Persian-style gardens is one of Delhi's most beautiful sights. Then walk to Nizamuddin Dargah, the Sufi shrine where qawwali (devotional music) is performed every Thursday evening. The surrounding lane has famous biryani stalls.

Metro to Qutub Minar (₹600), a 73m victory tower from 1193, the tallest brick minaret in the world. The surrounding archaeological complex has the mysterious Iron Pillar (1,600 years rust-free) and ruins of India's first mosque. Then auto to Hauz Khas Village, Delhi's bohemian neighbourhood with art galleries, boutiques, and cafes surrounding a medieval lake and ruins. Lunch at a Hauz Khas cafe (₹300–500).

Visit India Gate at sunset, Delhi's iconic war memorial lit up against the twilight sky. Walk Kartavya Path (formerly Rajpath) for the grand vista of government buildings. Then metro to Connaught Place, the colonial circular market. Dinner at Saravana Bhavan for South Indian thali (₹250–350) or United Coffee House for colonial-era ambiance and North Indian cuisine (₹400–600). The Rajiv Chowk metro station here is Delhi's busiest.

Visit Akshardham Temple (free, no phones/cameras allowed), an extraordinary modern Hindu temple complex with 20,000 carved figures, a musical fountain show, and exhibitions on Hindu philosophy. Allow 2–3 hours. Then auto to Lotus Temple (free), a Baha'i house of worship shaped like a lotus flower with 27 marble petals. The architecture is stunning regardless of your faith.

Stroll through Lodhi Garden, a beautiful park containing 15th-century Mughal tombs scattered among manicured lawns and ancient trees. Free entry. Delhi's joggers, yoga practitioners, and couples make it feel alive. Walk to Khan Market, Delhi's upscale shopping area with bookshops (Full Circle, Bahrisons), boutiques, and the best contemporary restaurants. Lunch at Big Chill Cafe for Italian-Indian fusion (₹400–600).

Visit Dilli Haat (₹30 entry), a permanent open-air market showcasing handicrafts and food from every Indian state. Each stall represents a different region. Buy Rajasthani textiles, Kashmiri shawls, or Kerala spices. The food stalls serve regional specialities from ₹100–200. For a farewell splurge, dinner at Indian Accent (reservations essential), one of Asia's top restaurants, modern Indian tasting menu from ₹4,500.