Delhi 3-day itinerary

Start at Jama Masjid — India's largest mosque, built in 1656 with capacity for 25,000 worshippers. The courtyard is immense. Climb the southern minaret (₹300) for views of Old Delhi's rooftops stretching endlessly. Then plunge into Chandni Chowk — one of the oldest markets in Asia. Breakfast at Paranthe Wali Gali (Paratha Lane) — stuffed parathas fried in ghee from ₹60, a tradition since 1875.

Walk to the Red Fort (₹600) — Shah Jahan's 1648 palace complex of red sandstone walls, marble apartments, and Mughal gardens. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) once held the legendary Peacock Throne. Audio guide recommended (₹150) for understanding the layers of Mughal, British, and Indian history. Then take a cycle rickshaw through the Old Delhi lanes — the controlled chaos is exhilarating.

Return to Old Delhi for a self-guided food walk — the greatest street food concentration in India. Try: nihari at Haji Shabrati (slow-cooked buffalo stew, ₹120), kebabs at Karim's (since 1913, ₹150–250), jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala near Chandni Chowk metro (₹60/plate), and kulfi falooda at Giani's (₹80). Each lane specialises in a different food. The evening atmosphere is magical.

Start at Humayun's Tomb (₹600) — the 1570 garden tomb that was the prototype for the Taj Mahal. The symmetrical red-and-white sandstone mausoleum set in Persian-style gardens is one of Delhi's most beautiful sights. Then walk to Nizamuddin Dargah — the Sufi shrine where qawwali (devotional music) is performed every Thursday evening. The surrounding lane has famous biryani stalls.

Metro to Qutub Minar (₹600) — a 73m victory tower from 1193, the tallest brick minaret in the world. The surrounding archaeological complex has the mysterious Iron Pillar (1,600 years rust-free) and ruins of India's first mosque. Then auto to Hauz Khas Village — Delhi's bohemian neighbourhood with art galleries, boutiques, and cafes surrounding a medieval lake and ruins. Lunch at a Hauz Khas cafe (₹300–500).

Visit India Gate at sunset — Delhi's iconic war memorial lit up against the twilight sky. Walk Kartavya Path (formerly Rajpath) for the grand vista of government buildings. Then metro to Connaught Place — the colonial circular market. Dinner at Saravana Bhavan for South Indian thali (₹250–350) or United Coffee House for colonial-era ambiance and North Indian cuisine (₹400–600). The Rajiv Chowk metro station here is Delhi's busiest.

Visit Akshardham Temple (free, no phones/cameras allowed) — an extraordinary modern Hindu temple complex with 20,000 carved figures, a musical fountain show, and exhibitions on Hindu philosophy. Allow 2–3 hours. Then auto to Lotus Temple (free) — a Baha'i house of worship shaped like a lotus flower with 27 marble petals. The architecture is stunning regardless of your faith.

Stroll through Lodhi Garden — a beautiful park containing 15th-century Mughal tombs scattered among manicured lawns and ancient trees. Free entry. Delhi's joggers, yoga practitioners, and couples make it feel alive. Walk to Khan Market — Delhi's upscale shopping area with bookshops (Full Circle, Bahrisons), boutiques, and the best contemporary restaurants. Lunch at Big Chill Cafe for Italian-Indian fusion (₹400–600).

Visit Dilli Haat (₹30 entry) — a permanent open-air market showcasing handicrafts and food from every Indian state. Each stall represents a different region — buy Rajasthani textiles, Kashmiri shawls, or Kerala spices. The food stalls serve regional specialties from ₹100–200. For a farewell splurge, dinner at Indian Accent (reservations essential) — one of Asia's top restaurants, modern Indian tasting menu from ₹4,500.