Day 1: San Telmo, La Boca & Centro
San Telmo — Cobblestones & Markets
Start in San Telmo — the soul of Buenos Aires. Walk Calle Defensa past antique shops, vintage stores, and crumbling colonial buildings. The Feria de San Telmo (Sunday) stretches 10 blocks with antiques, leather goods, and live tango. Any day, Mercado de San Telmo is outstanding — empanadas (ARS 800–1,200 each), fresh pasta, coffee, and artisanal cheese. Grab breakfast at Coffee Town (ARS 4,000–7,000).
La Boca & Centro
Walk to La Boca's Caminito for the colourful corrugated-metal houses and street tango — stay on the tourist blocks only. Then bus or metro to Plaza de Mayo — the political heart of Argentina flanked by the Casa Rosada (free tours), the Cabildo, and the Cathedral where Pope Francis served as archbishop. Walk Calle Florida — a pedestrian shopping street — to the ornate Galerías Pacífico mall.
Palermo Soho Dinner & Drinks
Palermo Soho is the epicentre of Buenos Aires nightlife. Dinner at a parrilla — bife de chorizo (sirloin) at La Cabrera (ARS 15,000–20,000 with sides) or budget at El Pobre Luis in Belgrano. Argentine steak is world-class even at mid-range restaurants. Drinks at Plaza Serrano — Frank's Bar (speakeasy, ring the bell), Nicky Harrison, or Victoria Brown for cocktails (ARS 5,000–8,000).
Day 2: Recoleta, MALBA & Tango
Recoleta Cemetery & Culture
The Cementerio de la Recoleta (free entry) is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world — ornate mausoleums, elaborate statuary, and the final resting place of Eva Perón. You could spend an hour wandering the lanes. Walk to the adjacent Iglesia del Pilar (free) and the weekend artisan market in Plaza Francia. Brunch at La Biela (ARS 6,000–10,000) under the ancient gomero tree.
MALBA & Palermo Parks
MALBA (ARS 6,000, free Wednesdays after 5pm) is Latin America's premier modern art museum — works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, and Argentine masters like Xul Solar and Antonio Berni. Walk to the nearby Jardín Japonés (ARS 3,000) for peaceful paths and a teahouse, then through the Bosques de Palermo — lakes, rose gardens, and families picnicking on the grass.
Tango Show or Milonga
Buenos Aires is the birthplace of tango. For tourists, a dinner-and-show at Café de los Angelitos or Esquina Carlos Gardel costs ARS 30,000–60,000. For the real experience, attend a milonga (social tango dance) — La Catedral in Almagro (ARS 3,000–5,000 entry) is in a converted warehouse where locals dance until 3am. Beginners welcome — free lessons usually start at 9pm.
Day 3: Palermo, Markets & Farewell
Palermo Hollywood & Brunch
Explore Palermo Hollywood — the trendier, less touristy side of Palermo with production studios, murals, and excellent brunch spots. Breakfast at Crisol (ARS 6,000–10,000) or Ninina Bakery for pastries and specialty coffee (ARS 4,000–7,000). Walk the tree-lined streets and browse the independent design shops along Gurruchaga and Honduras streets. The street art here is world-class.
Mataderos Fair or Tigre Delta
If it is Sunday, take a bus to the Feria de Mataderos — an authentic gaucho market in the outer suburbs with folk dancing, horseback shows, regional food (locro stew, empanadas, choripán for ARS 2,000–4,000), and a genuine rural atmosphere rarely seen by tourists. Alternatively, take the Tren de la Costa to Tigre (ARS 1,500 return) — a river delta with boat rides through island communities.
Farewell Steak & Wine
Last dinner at a proper parrilla — order a parillada (mixed grill for two, ARS 25,000–40,000) with a bottle of Malbec (ARS 5,000–12,000 at a restaurant, ARS 2,000–5,000 at a wine shop). El Desnivel in San Telmo is a local favourite for no-frills steak at honest prices. End with a walk along Puerto Madero's illuminated waterfront — the Puente de la Mujer bridge is stunning at night.
