Vilnius 3-day itinerary

Start at Cathedral Square — Lithuania's symbolic heart where the nation gathers for celebrations and protests. The neoclassical Cathedral is free to enter. Climb Gediminas Tower (€6) on the castle hill for a panoramic view of the largest baroque old town in Eastern Europe. Find the "Stebuklas" (miracle) tile in the square — stand on it, spin clockwise three times, and make a wish. Walk down Pilies gatvė to the old town.

Vilnius has more baroque churches per square kilometre than almost any city in Europe. Visit Sts. Peter and Paul's Church (free) — the interior has 2,000+ white stucco figures covering every surface, a masterpiece of baroque decoration. Walk to the Gate of Dawn (Aušros Vartai) — the only surviving city gate with a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary that draws pilgrims. Lunch at Etno Dvaras for Lithuanian cuisine (mains €7–12).

Dinner at Lokys (The Bear) — Vilnius's oldest restaurant in a 15th-century cellar, famous for wild game: wild boar, elk, and beaver tail (yes, beaver). Mains €12–20. It's touristic but genuinely historic. Then explore Vilniaus gatvė — the main bar street. Alaus Biblioteka (Beer Library) has 20+ Lithuanian craft beers on tap (€3–5). Bix does inventive cocktails (€7–9).

Cross the bridge into Užupis — Vilnius's self-declared independent republic since 1997. It has its own president, constitution, flag, and anthem. Read the Užupis Constitution on Paupio gatvė (displayed in 30+ languages) — "A cat is not obliged to love its owner, but must help in difficult times." Explore the street art, galleries, and studios. The angel statue in the main square is the neighbourhood's guardian.

Visit MO Museum (€9) — Lithuania's museum of modern and contemporary art, designed by Daniel Libeskind. The collection covers Lithuanian art from the 1960s onwards, with powerful pieces from the Soviet era and independence movement. Then walk through Vilnius University's courtyards (€1.50) — one of Europe's oldest universities (1579) with beautiful frescoed halls and 13 interconnected courtyards.

Start at Šnekutis on Polocko gatvė for Vilnius's cheapest draught beer (€2/half-litre) and Lithuanian food. Try cepelinai — enormous potato dumplings stuffed with meat, the national dish (€4–6). Then bar-hop: Špunka for natural wines in a cozy cellar, Keulė Rūkė for cocktails in a converted bathhouse, or Pablasé for late-night techno. Vilnius nightlife is cheap and genuinely good.

Bus from Vilnius bus station to Trakai (30 min, €2). Walk 2km through the town to Trakai Island Castle — a stunning 14th-century red-brick fortress on an island in Lake Galvė, once the seat of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. The castle museum (€10) covers Lithuanian medieval history. The setting — red towers rising from blue lake water, surrounded by forested shores — is one of the most photogenic in the Baltics.

Rent a kayak or paddleboard on Lake Galvė (€8–12/hour) for views of the castle from the water. Then explore Trakai's unique Karaim heritage — a small Turkic community brought here by Grand Duke Vytautas in the 14th century. Visit the Kenesa (Karaim prayer house) and eat kibinai — traditional Karaim pasties filled with mutton and onion (€3–4 each). They're Trakai's signature food.

Evening bus back to Vilnius. Farewell dinner at Sweet Root — one of Lithuania's best restaurants, focusing on foraged and fermented ingredients from the Lithuanian countryside (tasting menu ~€55). Or keep it budget at Forto Dvaras for traditional Lithuanian food at honest prices (mains €6–10). End the night in Užupis — a quiet drink on the riverbank, watching the old town glow.