Vilnius 1-day itinerary

Start at Cathedral Square (Katedros aikštė), the symbolic heart of Lithuania. Climb Gediminas Tower (€6) on the castle hill for a panoramic view of the terracotta-roofed old town, the largest baroque old town in Eastern Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Descend through the park and walk Pilies gatvė, the main old town street lined with cafés, amber shops, and street musicians.

Cross the bridge into Užupis, Vilnius's self-declared independent republic of artists, bohemians, and dreamers. Read the Užupis Constitution (displayed in 30+ languages on a wall on Paupio gatvė): "Everyone has the right to be happy." Visit the Gate of Dawn (Aušros Vartai) with its miraculous icon, and Sts. Peter and Paul's Church, where 2,000+ white stucco figures cover every surface. Lunch at Bistro 18 for Lithuanian dishes (mains €7–12).

Dinner at Šnekutis, a tiny, legendary beer hall on Polocko gatvė with the cheapest draught beer in the old town (€2 for a half-litre) and hearty Lithuanian food. Cepelinai (potato dumplings stuffed with meat) are the national dish: heavy, filling, and utterly satisfying for €4–6. Then explore Vilniaus gatvė for bars: Bix for cocktails, Alaus Biblioteka for craft beer, or Opium for late-night dancing.