Valparaíso 1-day itinerary

Start on Cerro Alegre, the most colourful of Valparaíso's 42 hills. The steep cobblestone streets and stairways are covered in murals, mosaics, and graffiti that range from political commentary to pure fantasy. Every wall, doorway, and staircase is a canvas. Take the Ascensor El Peral funicular from Plaza Sotomayor up to the hill to begin your exploration. The Paseo Yugoslavo promenade offers stunning views over the harbour and the Bay of Valparaíso. The morning light catches the painted facades beautifully and the neighbourhood is quieter before noon.

Cross to neighbouring Cerro Concepción, equally colourful and home to many of the city's best cafes and restaurants. The streets here have a European feel — German, English, and Italian immigrants built many of the Victorian and Art Nouveau houses that now house galleries and boutique hotels. Visit La Sebastiana, Pablo Neruda's Valparaíso house, now a museum. The Nobel Prize-winning poet chose this hillside home for its panoramic harbour views, and the eccentric interior reflects his love of maritime objects, maps, and surreal collections.

Descend to the port area and walk along the Muelle Prat waterfront as the sunset paints the harbour gold. Sea lions lounge on the dock pilings and fishing boats bob in the harbour. The Plaza Sotomayor is flanked by the imposing Naval Headquarters building — Valparaíso is the home of the Chilean Navy. For dinner, find a restaurant on Cerro Alegre or Concepción serving fresh seafood — ceviche, reineta (local fish), and machas a la parmesana (razor clams with parmesan). Pair with a Chilean sauvignon blanc.