Thessaloniki 3-day itinerary

Start at the White Tower (€4) for panoramic views and city history. Then visit the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki (€8, free Sundays Nov–Mar) — highlights include the gold wreath of Myrtle from Vergina, Macedonian treasures, and the Derveni Krater, an extraordinary 4th-century BC bronze vessel. Walk the Nea Paralia waterfront promenade with its sculptural umbrellas installation.

Explore the newly renovated Modiano Market — Thessaloniki's historic covered market, now combining traditional food stalls with trendy eateries. Try bougatsa (custard pastry, €3) at Bougatsa Bantis, then walk to Kapani Market next door for spices, olives, and Macedonian cured meats. Lunch at Dore Zythos in Ladadika for meze platters (€6–12 per plate). Thessaloniki is Greece's food capital for good reason.

The Ladadika district — cobblestoned streets lined with tavernas, wine bars, and ouzo spots. Dinner at Ouzou Melathron for traditional Greek meze with ouzo (the classic Thessaloniki evening). Order pikilia (mixed meze platter), grilled octopus, and saganaki (fried cheese, flambéed with brandy). Then walk the waterfront to Aristotelous Square for people-watching and a nightcap.

Thessaloniki has more UNESCO-listed Byzantine monuments than anywhere outside Istanbul. Start at the Rotunda (€3) — a 4th-century Roman building with stunning mosaics. Walk to Agios Dimitrios (free) — the patron saint's church built over a Roman forum with a crypt you can explore. Then the Arch of Galerius (free) — a triumphal arch from 305 AD that anchors the eastern old town.

Walk uphill to Ano Poli — the old Ottoman quarter that survived the Great Fire of 1917 and retains its traditional character. Wander narrow lanes past wooden houses with overhanging balconies, tiny Byzantine churches, and neighbourhood cats. Walk the Byzantine Walls for city and sea views. Lunch at Tsinari for traditional Macedonian food in a garden setting (mains €8–12). Visit the Atatürk Museum (free).

Dinner at Sempriko near Aristotelous Square for modern Greek small plates (€5–10 per dish). Then head to Valaoritou Street — the former warehouse district turned nightlife hotspot. The street has everything from craft beer bars (Gorilla, Beerθoven) to cocktail lounges (The Gin Joint) to late-night clubs. Beer costs €4–5, cocktails €7–10. Thessaloniki nights run late — nothing starts before 10pm.

Visit the Museum of Byzantine Culture (€4, free Sundays Nov–Mar) — one of Europe's finest Byzantine collections. Mosaics, icons, frescoes, and jewellery spanning 1,000 years. The museum design is excellent, making complex history accessible and engaging. Then walk through the Thessaloniki International Fair grounds to the MOMus contemporary art museums — a cluster of galleries in one area.

Final food exploration around Aristotelous Square — Thessaloniki's grand central plaza designed after the 1917 fire. Last bougatsa at Bougatsa Bantis. Walk to Bit Bazaar district for vintage shops, second-hand books, and street art. Final lunch at Full tou Meze for traditional Thessaloniki meze — the kind of place where the waiter tells you what's good today and brings a feast for €15.

Final evening on the waterfront. Walk the entire Nea Paralia from the White Tower to the concert hall — 5km of public art, sculpture, and sea views. The sunset over the Thermaic Gulf with Mount Olympus in the distance is unforgettable. Farewell dinner at Kitchen Bar for rooftop cocktails and harbour views, or at Orexi in Ladadika for a proper Greek meze send-off with ouzo and grilled seafood.