Tbilisi 3-day itinerary

Start in Tbilisi's Old Town, a photogenic maze of leaning wooden balconies, crumbling facades, grapevines crawling up walls, and hidden courtyards. Take the cable car (3 GEL return) from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress, the 4th-century citadel with the best panorama in the city. Walk down through the Botanical Garden (4 GEL). The waterfall trail is a green oasis below the fortress walls.

Explore Abanotubani, the sulphur bath district with its brick domes steaming since the 13th century. Walk up the Leghvtakhevi gorge, a hidden canyon with a waterfall right in the city centre, accessible by a pedestrian path from the bath district. See the Jumah Mosque and the Anchiskhati Basilica (6th century, Tbilisi's oldest church) side by side. Lunch at Samikitno near Baratashvili Bridge: enormous Georgian meals for 8–15 GEL.

Book a private sulphur bath at Chreli Abano (30–80 GEL, 45 min). The hot mineral water and vigorous kisi scrub are deeply rejuvenating. Then walk to Sololaki's wine bars. Lado Asatiani Street has dozens of tiny bars pouring natural Georgian wine from qvevri (clay vessels). Vino Underground is the pioneer. A glass of amber wine costs 8–15 GEL. Dinner at Café Littera for fine Georgian dining (mains 25–45 GEL).

Walk Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi's grand boulevard past the Opera House, Parliament, and Soviet-era facades. Visit the Georgian National Museum (15 GEL). The Archaeology Treasury holds 3,000-year-old Colchian gold jewellery (the real Golden Fleece story), and the Soviet Occupation exhibition is powerful. Coffee at Stamba Hotel's lobby café, a converted Soviet printing house turned design hotel.

Browse the Dry Bridge Flea Market, a sprawling outdoor market selling Soviet memorabilia, antique jewellery, paintings, old cameras, and military medals. Bargaining is expected. Start at 50% of the asking price. Then walk to Fabrika, a converted Soviet sewing factory now housing a hostel, co-working space, cafés, and a courtyard that's the social hub of young Tbilisi. Lunch at Fabrika's food court (mains 8–15 GEL).

Take the funicular (5 GEL return) up Mtatsminda, Tbilisi's sacred mountain with panoramic views over the city and the Caucasus Mountains beyond. Visit at sunset for the best light. Back in town, find a traditional supra-style dinner: Georgian feasting with endless toasts (tamada tradition), khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings), pkhali (walnut-herb spreads), and chacha (grape brandy). Try Kakhelebi (mains 12–20 GEL).

Marshrutka (minibus) from Didube station to Mtskheta (30 min, 1 GEL), Georgia's ancient capital and spiritual heart, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, one of the oldest churches in the world (4th century), believed to house Christ's robe. Then taxi or hike up to Jvari Monastery (6th century) perched on a clifftop above the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. The views are transcendent.

Back in Tbilisi, walk through Sololaki, the old residential quarter with art nouveau buildings, hidden courtyards, and the finest carved balconies in the city. Walk up to the Chronicles of Georgia monument (free) on a hill above Tbilisi Sea: 16 massive stone pillars carved with scenes from Georgian history. Lunch at Ezo on Abashidze Street for traditional Georgian food in a courtyard (mains 12–18 GEL).

Final dinner at Shavi Lomi for modern Georgian cuisine: creative takes on traditional dishes using seasonal, local ingredients (tasting plates 15–30 GEL). Or go full traditional at Sakhli 11 for a proper supra with tamada-led toasts, unlimited khinkali, and rivers of wine and chacha. Finish at Bassiani, Tbilisi's world-famous techno club in a converted Soviet swimming pool, if the night calls.