Tbilisi 3-day itinerary

Start in Tbilisi's Old Town — a photogenic maze of leaning wooden balconies, crumbling facades, grapevines crawling up walls, and hidden courtyards. Take the cable car (3 GEL return) from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress — the 4th-century citadel with the best panorama in the city. Walk down through the Botanical Garden (4 GEL) — the waterfall trail is a green oasis below the fortress walls.

Explore Abanotubani — the sulphur bath district with its brick domes steaming since the 13th century. Walk up the Leghvtakhevi gorge — a hidden canyon with a waterfall right in the city centre, accessible by a pedestrian path from the bath district. See the Jumah Mosque and the Anchiskhati Basilica (6th century, Tbilisi's oldest church) side by side. Lunch at Samikitno near Baratashvili Bridge — enormous Georgian meals for 8–15 GEL.

Book a private sulphur bath at Chreli Abano (30–80 GEL, 45 min) — the hot mineral water and vigorous kisi scrub are deeply rejuvenating. Then walk to Sololaki's wine bars — Lado Asatiani Street has dozens of tiny bars pouring natural Georgian wine from qvevri (clay vessels). Vino Underground is the pioneer. A glass of amber wine costs 8–15 GEL. Dinner at Café Littera for fine Georgian dining (mains 25–45 GEL).

Walk Rustaveli Avenue — Tbilisi's grand boulevard past the Opera House, Parliament, and Soviet-era facades. Visit the Georgian National Museum (15 GEL) — the Archaeology Treasury holds 3,000-year-old Colchian gold jewellery (the real Golden Fleece story), and the Soviet Occupation exhibition is powerful. Coffee at Stamba Hotel's lobby café — a converted Soviet printing house turned design hotel.

Browse the Dry Bridge Flea Market — a sprawling outdoor market selling Soviet memorabilia, antique jewellery, paintings, old cameras, and military medals. Bargaining is expected — start at 50% of the asking price. Then walk to Fabrika — a converted Soviet sewing factory now housing a hostel, co-working space, cafés, and a courtyard that's the social hub of young Tbilisi. Lunch at Fabrika's food court (mains 8–15 GEL).

Take the funicular (5 GEL return) up Mtatsminda — Tbilisi's sacred mountain with panoramic views over the city and the Caucasus Mountains beyond. Visit at sunset for the best light. Back in town, find a traditional supra-style dinner — Georgian feasting with endless toasts (tamada tradition), khachapuri (cheese bread), khinkali (dumplings), pkhali (walnut-herb spreads), and chacha (grape brandy). Try Kakhelebi (mains 12–20 GEL).

Marshrutka (minibus) from Didube station to Mtskheta (30 min, 1 GEL) — Georgia's ancient capital and spiritual heart, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — one of the oldest churches in the world (4th century), believed to house Christ's robe. Then taxi or hike up to Jvari Monastery (6th century) perched on a clifftop above the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers — the views are transcendent.

Back in Tbilisi, walk through Sololaki — the old residential quarter with art nouveau buildings, hidden courtyards, and the finest carved balconies in the city. Walk up to the Chronicles of Georgia monument (free) on a hill above Tbilisi Sea — 16 massive stone pillars carved with scenes from Georgian history. Lunch at Ezo on Abashidze Street for traditional Georgian food in a courtyard (mains 12–18 GEL).

Final dinner at Shavi Lomi for modern Georgian cuisine — creative takes on traditional dishes using seasonal, local ingredients (tasting plates 15–30 GEL). Or go full traditional at Sakhli 11 for a proper supra with tamada-led toasts, unlimited khinkali, and rivers of wine and chacha. Finish at Bassiani — Tbilisi's world-famous techno club in a converted Soviet swimming pool, if the night calls.