Tallinn 3-day itinerary

Start at Toompea — the upper old town. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (free) has a glittering Orthodox interior. Walk to Kohtuotsa viewing platform for the iconic panorama of red rooftops, medieval church spires, and the Baltic Sea. Then Patkuli viewpoint for a different angle over the lower town. Peer into the Estonian Parliament (Riigikogu) courtyard at Toompea Castle. Descend via the atmospheric Long Leg (Pikk Jalg) passage.

Raekoja plats is medieval Europe at its most photogenic — the 15th-century Gothic Town Hall, colourful merchant houses, and the oldest pharmacy in Europe (Raeapteek, since 1422, free to enter). Walk Viru Street through the medieval gate towers, visit the Holy Spirit Church (€2), and explore the hidden passages like St. Catherine's Passage with its medieval craft workshops. Lunch at Kompressor for huge pancakes (€5–8).

Dinner on Rataskaevu Street — the locals' favourite eating street. Try Rataskaevu 16 for modern Estonian with seasonal ingredients (mains €12–18) or Leib Resto ja Aed for farm-to-table dining in a medieval cellar with garden. Then bar-hop in the old town — Hell Hunt (Estonia's first brewery pub, pints €4–5), DM Baar for Depeche Mode obsessives, or Koht for craft cocktails.

Explore Telliskivi Creative City — a sprawling former Soviet industrial complex now housing galleries, independent design shops, vintage stores, craft breweries, and street food vendors. The Saturday flea market (Balti Jaama Turg) is next door — Estonia's biggest market with food, vintage, and local crafts. Coffee at Røst or Fotografiska café. The vibe here is Berlin-meets-Scandi-cool.

Walk through Kalamaja — Tallinn's hippest neighbourhood, a former fishing village with colourful wooden houses, street art, and independent cafés. Visit Lennusadam (Seaplane Harbour, €15) — a spectacular maritime museum in a WWI-era seaplane hangar housing a real submarine (Lembit), a century-old icebreaker, and interactive exhibits. Lunch at NAMI for Asian-inspired bowls in Kalamaja (€8–12).

Dinner at F-hoone in Telliskivi — a massive converted factory serving modern Estonian food (wild boar, elk, herring, seasonal berries, mains €10–16). The industrial interior is stunning. Then Telliskivi nightlife: Pudel Baar for craft beer and live music, Sveta Baar for Soviet-chic cocktails, or Tops for rooftop drinks with skyline views. Tallinn nightlife is affordable — pints €4–5, cocktails €7–9.

Tram 1 or 3 to Kadriorg — a baroque palace built by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine, set in beautiful formal gardens. Visit KUMU Art Museum (€10) next door — the finest art museum in the Baltics, housed in a stunning building by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori. The Soviet-era art collection is fascinating. Walk through Kadriorg Park — 70 hectares of gardens, ponds, and woodland paths.

Continue by bus or walk to Pirita Beach — Tallinn's most popular beach, 2km of white sand backed by pine forests. In summer the water reaches 18–20°C (bracing by Mediterranean standards, warm by Baltic). Stop at the Tallinn Song Festival Grounds (free to walk around) — the massive amphitheatre where 300,000 Estonians gathered during the Singing Revolution in 1988 to sing their way to freedom.

Back to the old town for a farewell dinner. Splurge at Ö — one of the Baltics' best restaurants, focused on foraging and Nordic-Estonian flavours (tasting menu ~€65). Or keep it budget at Kompressor for a final giant pancake. End with a walk through the illuminated old town — the medieval streets at night, with their gas lamps and stone walls, feel genuinely transported in time.