Split 3-day itinerary

Enter through the Bronze Gate into the basement halls — the best-preserved Roman basement in the world, originally built to support the emperor's apartments above. Emerge into the Peristyle courtyard and take in the monumental columns, the sphinx from Egypt, and the blend of Roman, Medieval, and modern life crammed into every corner. Climb the bell tower of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius (Diocletian's mausoleum, converted to a cathedral in the 7th century) for the best aerial view of the palace complex and the harbour.

Explore the warren of lanes within and around the palace walls. The Iron Gate leads to Narodni Trg (People's Square) with its Venetian clock tower and café terraces. The Golden Gate to the north faces the massive statue of Grgur Ninski (Gregory of Nin) — rub his big toe for good luck, as every local has done. Wander through the Marmontova shopping street and the green market (Pazar) on the east side of the palace for fresh fruit, cheese, and lavender sachets.

Join the evening passeggiata on the Riva — the palm-lined waterfront is at its best after sunset when the palace walls are illuminated and the café terraces fill up. For late-night drinks, the bars inside the palace walls (Luxor in the Peristyle, Ghetto Club) have extraordinary settings — drinking cocktails inside a Roman emperor's retirement palace. In summer, the nightlife extends to the beach bars at Bačvice and Žnjan.

Walk to the western tip of the Marjan peninsula through Mediterranean pine forest. The trail passes the Jewish cemetery, the 15th-century chapel of St. Nicholas, and several viewpoints before reaching the Telegrin summit (178m) — the highest point on the peninsula with views across the entire Split coastline, the islands of Brač, Šolta, and Hvar, and the Dinaric Alps on the mainland. The forest is peaceful and cool even in summer, and the trails are well-marked.

Take a bus (30 minutes) to Klis Fortress — a dramatic clifftop fortification perched on a mountain pass above Split. This was the last stronghold against the Ottoman advance into Dalmatia and later served as the filming location for Meereen in Game of Thrones. The fortress walls climb along a rocky ridge with panoramic views of Split, the coast, and the mountain hinterland. The on-site museum tells the story of the Croatian resistance.

Return to Split and head to Bačvice beach — a shallow sandy bay where locals play picigin, a uniquely Split sport involving keeping a small ball in the air while standing in knee-deep water. The beach faces west for sunset views and the surrounding bars and cafés create Split's liveliest evening atmosphere. Order a Ožujsko beer and grilled ćevapi (minced meat sausages) from a beachside grill.

Take the bus (30 minutes) to Trogir, a perfectly preserved medieval island town connected to the mainland by a bridge. The UNESCO-listed old town is a compact maze of Romanesque and Gothic architecture — the Cathedral of St. Lawrence with its extraordinary Radovan Portal (1240), the Kamerlengo Fortress, and narrow stone lanes opening onto small squares with café terraces. Trogir is smaller and quieter than Split, giving a more intimate taste of Dalmatian architecture.

Walk or water-taxi to the beaches on the nearby island of Čiovo, connected to Trogir by a bridge. The Okrug Gornji beach (known locally as Copacabana) has clear water, beach bars, and views back to the Trogir skyline. Swim and sunbathe before taking the bus back to Split for your final afternoon.

End your Split trip with dinner inside Diocletian's Palace — eat grilled Adriatic fish or slow-cooked Dalmatian peka (meat and vegetables cooked under an iron bell) at a konoba (traditional restaurant) in the palace lanes. Walk the illuminated Riva one last time and raise a glass of local Plavac Mali red wine to the most spectacular Roman ruin you have ever lived inside.