Snow Monkeys 3-day itinerary

Take the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Nagano (1hr 20min, ¥8,200 or JR Pass). From Nagano, the Nagaden Express bus to Kanbayashi Onsen takes 40 minutes (¥1,500). Check into a ryokan or guesthouse in the Yudanaka/Shibu Onsen area — atmospheric hot spring villages with wooden bathhouses, narrow lanes, and a strong sense of old Japan. Shibu Onsen has nine free public bathhouses that guests of local ryokan can access with a master key.

Walk the 1.6km forest trail to Jigokudani Monkey Park (¥800 entry). Afternoon visits in winter mean fewer visitors and softer light filtering through the snow-laden trees. The macaques tend to be active throughout the day in winter, but afternoon light is better for photography. Spend 1–2 hours observing the troop — there is no time limit once inside. The hot spring pool is surrounded by rocks and steam, with the monkeys arranged in a natural hierarchy — dominant males get the best spots.

After dinner at your ryokan (many include multi-course kaiseki dinner), explore Shibu Onsen on foot. The village comes alive at night with guests in yukata (cotton robes) and geta (wooden sandals) walking between the nine public bathhouses — each is said to bring a different blessing, from safe childbirth to relief from illness. The narrow stone streets, lit by lanterns, feel like stepping into historical Japan. End the evening soaking in your ryokan's private onsen under the stars.

Rise early and visit Zenkoji Temple for the Oasaji morning prayer ceremony, held daily at sunrise (time varies seasonally — around 6:30am in winter, 5:30am in summer). The head priest walks from the residence to the main hall along a lantern-lit path, and worshippers can receive a blessing by bowing as the priest passes. Inside the main hall, the Kaidan Meguri allows visitors to descend into complete darkness beneath the altar and feel along the wall for a metal key — touching it is said to grant salvation. Entry to the main hall and Kaidan Meguri costs ¥600.

Walk the Nakamise-dori approach to Zenkoji — a 500m shopping street lined with traditional shops selling Nagano specialities: oyaki (grilled dumplings stuffed with vegetables or nozawana pickles), shichimi togarashi (seven-spice chilli blend), and local crafts. Continue to the Nagano Prefectural Shinano Art Museum or the quieter Togakushi Shrine area (40 minutes by bus), a Shinto shrine set in an ancient forest of 400-year-old cedar trees with a dramatic 2km-long approach path.

Consider a second visit to the monkey park in the morning light (the best photography conditions), or spend the afternoon exploring Obuse, a charming small town 30 minutes from Nagano by Nagaden train, famous for its chestnut confections and the Hokusai Museum — the ukiyo-e master Katsushika Hokusai spent his final years here. Return to your accommodation in the onsen village for a final soak and dinner.

The Nagano region hosted the 1998 Winter Olympics and has world-class skiing. Shiga Kogen, reachable by bus from Yudanaka (25 minutes), is Japan's largest ski area — 21 interconnected resorts with a single lift pass (¥6,000/day). Nozawa Onsen, a traditional hot spring village with a ski resort above it, is 60 minutes from Nagano by bus and offers excellent intermediate terrain with powder snow. Ski rental costs around ¥4,000–5,000 per day at either resort.

Japanese ski resort food is famously good — mountain lodges serve ramen, katsu curry, gyudon (beef bowls), and hot udon for ¥800–1,200. The runs are generally less crowded than European or North American resorts, and the snow quality (cold, dry powder from the Sea of Japan weather systems) is exceptional. Afternoon skiing until the lifts close at 4:30pm gives you a full day on the mountain. The tree-lined runs at Shiga Kogen are particularly atmospheric in the afternoon light.

Head back to Nagano Station by bus and catch the Shinkansen to Tokyo. If you skied at Nozawa Onsen, spend an hour in the village's free public hot springs before leaving — the Ogama (large shared bath) in the village centre is fed by 90°C spring water and has been running for hundreds of years. Arrive back in Tokyo by late evening, reflecting on a trip that combined wildlife, culture, and world-class skiing — all within 90 minutes of the capital.