Rio de Janeiro 7-day itinerary

Cog train from Cosme Velho (R$95, book online) to Christ the Redeemer at 8am — the statue and the 360° view over Rio are unforgettable. Sugarloaf, Copacabana, the lagoon, and Tijuca Forest spread below. On a clear morning, the photo opportunities are world-class. Descend through Tijuca Forest — the train ride back through the canopy is magical.

Metro to Copacabana and walk the 4km mosaic boardwalk designed by Roberto Burle Marx. Rent a chair and umbrella from a vendor (R$15–20), order a coconut water (R$8–10), and soak in the beach culture — football, volleyball, vendors, and the endless parade of carioca life. Lunch at a juice bar — açaí bowl (R$15–25) or a prato feito (plate of the day, R$20–30).

Walk to Arpoador Rock between Copacabana and Ipanema for the sunset ritual — the crowd gathers, the sun drops behind Dois Irmãos, and everyone applauds. Dinner at Garota de Ipanema — the actual bar where "The Girl from Ipanema" was composed (mains R$50–80). Or keep it budget at Galeto Sat's for rotisserie chicken (R$30–45). Drinks along Rua Farme de Amoedo in Ipanema.

Cable car from Praia Vermelha to Sugarloaf (R$120). The two-stage ride offers jaw-dropping views — first Morro da Urca with its 360° panorama, then the summit for the full Rio skyline. Early morning light is best for photography. There is a short hiking trail on Morro da Urca if you want to explore. The cafe at the top serves decent coffee with the world's best view.

Uber up the hill to Santa Teresa — Rio's bohemian artist neighbourhood. Walk Largo do Guimarães past colonial mansions, art studios, and crumbling charm. Lunch at Bar do Mineiro for feijão tropeiro and pastéis (R$30–50). Visit Parque das Ruínas for panoramic city views from a ruined mansion turned cultural centre (free). Browse the ateliers on Rua Almirante Alexandrino.

Walk downhill from Santa Teresa to Lapa via the Escadaria Selarón — 250 mosaic-tiled steps connecting the neighbourhoods. In Lapa, walk under the Arcos da Lapa aqueduct. If it is Monday or Friday, Pedra do Sal has free outdoor samba with hundreds dancing (beer R$8–12). Otherwise, Rio Scenarium is the classic choice — three floors of samba in a colonial antique warehouse (cover R$40–60).

Uber to Tijuca for a morning hike in the world's largest urban rainforest. The Pico da Tijuca trail (2.5 hours round trip) reaches the highest point in the park at 1,022m with views over the city. Easier options include the Cascatinha Taunay waterfall walk (30 min) and Vista Chinesa (Chinese View). Monkeys, toucans, and butterflies are everywhere. The forest air is a welcome break from the beach heat.

Head to the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas — a saltwater lagoon surrounded by mountains. Rent a pedal boat (R$30–40/hour) or walk/cycle the 7.5km path around it. Visit the Jardim Botânico (R$38) — 137 hectares of tropical plants, including the famous Avenue of Royal Palms and the Amazonian section. Lunch at the garden's cafe or Braseiro da Gávea for a prato feito (R$25–35).

Botafogo is Rio's trendiest neighbourhood for food and nightlife. Dinner at Meza Bar for creative small plates (R$40–70) or Belmonte for classic carioca chopp and petiscos. Walk Rua Nelson Mandela for cocktail bars — Void, Comuna (rooftop with Sugarloaf view), and Nosso for contemporary Brazilian cocktails (R$30–45). The neighbourhood is compact, walkable, and buzzing every night.

Metro to Centro for Rio's cultural treasures. The Real Gabinete Português de Leitura (free) is one of the most beautiful libraries on earth — ornate woodwork and 350,000 books rising to a stained-glass ceiling. Walk to the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (CCBB, free) for world-class exhibitions. The Theatro Municipal (tours R$25) is modelled on the Paris Opéra.

Walk to Praça Mauá for the Museu do Amanhã (R$30, designed by Santiago Calatrava) — a striking waterfront museum about sustainability and the future. The Boulevard Olímpico stretching along the port has enormous murals by Eduardo Kobra. Visit the MAR (Museu de Arte do Rio, R$20) next door for Rio-focused contemporary art. Lunch at a downtown boteco — prato feito for R$20–30.

If it is Monday or Friday, head to Pedra do Sal in the Saúde neighbourhood — the birthplace of samba. Hundreds of people gather to dance samba de roda in the open air around the historic stone steps. Beer vendors charge R$8–12. The atmosphere is electric, inclusive, and authentically carioca. If not a samba night, try Bar da Dona Onça or a forró night at clubs in Lapa.

Take the ferry from Praça XV to Niterói (R$8, 20 min) — the crossing offers the best view of Rio's skyline from the water. In Niterói, visit the Museu de Arte Contemporânea (MAC, R$15) — Oscar Niemeyer's flying-saucer-shaped museum perched on a cliff with panoramic views of Rio across the bay. The building is as impressive as any artwork inside.

Walk to Praia de Icaraí — a long beach with great views of Rio across the water. Uber to the Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (R$10, 17th-century fortress) for tours of the historic military base at the mouth of Guanabara Bay. Continue to Itacoatiara beach for surfing and a more local beach experience. Lunch at a Niterói quilo restaurant — pay-by-weight buffet for R$30–50.

Ferry back to Rio. Head to Leblon — Ipanema's quieter, more upscale neighbour. Dinner at Sushi Leblon for Japanese-Brazilian fusion (R$60–120 per person) or CT Boucherie for steak (R$80–150). For a more relaxed evening, walk Rua Dias Ferreira — the city's restaurant row. End with a caipirinha at Jobi Bar (R$15–20), a classic Leblon boteco open since 1956.

Hike the Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) — the twin peaks you see behind Ipanema. The trail starts in Vidigal favela (entrance near the top of the morro). It is a 45-minute climb through forest to the summit with a panoramic view over Ipanema, Leblon, the lagoon, and the Atlantic Ocean. One of the best urban hikes in the world. Go with a local guide or in a group.

Uber to the Feira de São Cristóvão — a permanent market celebrating northeastern Brazilian culture. Live forró music, carne de sol (R$30–50), tapioca crepes (R$10–20), cachaça tastings, and leather goods. On weekends the feira is massive — multiple stages, dance floors, and thousands of people. The acarajé (Bahian fritter, R$15–20) and baião de dois (rice and beans, R$25–35) are outstanding.

Stay at the feira for forró dancing — the pé de serra stage plays traditional forró and everyone dances. Or return to Lapa for one more samba night. For something different, try a roda de samba at Bip Bip in Copacabana — a tiny boteco where musicians cram in and play samba for hours (free, tip the musicians). The intimacy is incredible — this is samba at its most raw.

Uber to Prainha — a hidden beach west of the city surrounded by Atlantic Forest, considered the best beach in greater Rio. The waves are perfect for surfing and the setting feels remote despite being 40 minutes from Ipanema. Grumari next door is equally beautiful and less crowded. Bring snacks and water — facilities are minimal. The contrast with Copacabana is stunning.

Return to Ipanema or Copacabana for one last beach session. Pick up souvenirs — Havaianas flip-flops (R$30–50 at shops, half the airport price), cachaca from a liquor store, or handmade crafts at the Hippie Fair in Ipanema (Sundays, Praça General Osório). Grab a final açaí bowl (R$15–25) and fresh coconut water from a beach vendor.

For a final evening, choose your perfect Rio moment. Sunset caipirinhas at Arpoador. Chopp at Jobi Bar in Leblon. A last samba at Pedra do Sal. Or splurge on dinner at Aprazível in Santa Teresa — Brazilian fine dining under a forest canopy with city views (mains R$80–150). However you end it, Rio leaves a mark that brings you back.