Phnom Penh 3-day itinerary

Begin at the Royal Palace ($10), the seat of Cambodian monarchy since 1866. The Throne Hall's golden tiered roof gleams in the morning sun, and the surrounding Khemarin Palace gardens are impeccably maintained. The Silver Pagoda next door has 5,329 silver floor tiles, a life-size gold Buddha studded with 9,584 diamonds, and the Emerald Buddha of Cambodia. Walk the gallery for the Reamker murals — 604 metres of the Khmer Ramayana depicted in fading but beautiful painted panels.

Walk to the National Museum ($10) — a beautiful terracotta building housing the world's finest collection of Khmer sculpture. The Angkor-era pieces include a massive reclining Vishnu from the West Mebon temple and rows of apsara figures. The central courtyard garden is peaceful. Then tuk-tuk to Wat Phnom ($1), the founding temple of the city on a small hill — legend says a woman named Penh found four Buddha statues washed up in the river and built the hill to house them, giving the city its name.

Walk Sisowath Quay at sunset as the Tonle Sap River reflects the fading sky. The riverside comes alive with joggers, couples, and food vendors. For dinner, head one block inland to Street 136 — the "Golden Mile" of restaurants and bars. Try bai sach chrouk (pork and rice, $1.50), fried morning glory with garlic ($2), and fresh spring rolls ($1.50). FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) has rooftop river views and $3 cocktails during happy hour.

Visit Tuol Sleng ($5, audio guide $3) — the former Tuol Svay Prey high school converted into Security Prison 21 by the Khmer Rouge. Between 1975–79, an estimated 20,000 people were tortured and processed here before being sent to the Killing Fields. The classrooms-turned-cells, shackle beds, and thousands of prisoner photographs are deeply harrowing. Two known survivors of S-21 still occasionally visit the museum and sell autobiographies at the entrance.

Tuk-tuk 15km south to Choeung Ek ($6, audio guide included) — the most notorious of Cambodia's estimated 300 killing fields. An audio tour guides you through the mass graves, the killing tree, and the memorial stupa containing over 8,000 skulls arranged by the method of execution. Bone fragments and clothing still surface after heavy rains. The experience is devastating but necessary — understanding this history is a responsibility that comes with visiting Cambodia.

Decompress with shopping at Toul Tom Poung Market (Russian Market) — a chaotic covered market selling silk, silverwork, carved stone, factory-second clothing brands, and Cambodian handicrafts. Bargain hard — start at 40% of the asking price. Dinner at Bassac Lane — a revitalised alleyway near the riverfront with craft cocktail bars, live music venues, and excellent small restaurants. Try Lot 369 for cocktails and atmosphere. The lane is Phnom Penh's hipster quarter.

Start at Phsar Thmei (Central Market), an Art Deco masterpiece built by the French in 1937 with a distinctive yellow dome. The four wings radiate outward filled with gold and gemstone dealers, watch repairers, and fabric sellers. The surrounding outdoor stalls sell everything from electronics to dried fish. Grab a Cambodian iced coffee from a street cart ($0.50) — condensed milk and strong coffee over ice, served in a plastic bag with a straw.

Walk or tuk-tuk to Koh Pich (Diamond Island) — a reclaimed island at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers where locals gather in the evenings. The island has parks, riverside cafes, and views across to rural Koh Dach (Silk Island) where traditional silk weavers still work on wooden looms under their stilted houses. A ferry to Koh Dach costs $1 and the village experience is genuine — buy silk directly from the weavers at fair prices.

Final dinner at Romdeng — a social enterprise restaurant (like sister restaurant Friends/Mith Samlanh) run by former street youth, serving traditional Cambodian cuisine including brave options like tarantula and red tree ant dishes alongside excellent fish amok and green mango salad ($4–8 mains). End with drinks at Eclipse Sky Bar on the 23rd floor of the Phnom Penh Tower for panoramic night views of the river junction and city lights.