Phnom Penh 1-day itinerary

Start at the Royal Palace ($10) — Cambodia's most important landmark and the official residence of King Sihamoni. The Throne Hall's soaring golden spire dominates the skyline, and the Khemarin Palace gardens are manicured to perfection. Adjacent is the Silver Pagoda (included in the ticket), its floor paved with over 5,000 silver tiles weighing 1kg each. Inside sits the Emerald Buddha and a life-size gold Maitreya Buddha encrusted with 9,584 diamonds. The compound's murals of the Reamker (Khmer Ramayana) line the gallery walls.

Visit Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum ($5, audio guide $3) — a former high school converted into S-21 prison where the Khmer Rouge tortured and killed an estimated 20,000 people between 1975–79. Then tuk-tuk 15km south to the Choeung Ek Killing Fields ($6, audio guide included) where prisoners were executed and buried in mass graves. The memorial stupa filled with skulls is devastating. These visits are emotionally draining but essential to understanding modern Cambodia.

Walk the Sisowath Quay riverside promenade as the sun sets over the Tonle Sap River. Locals come out for exercise, socialising, and street food. Cross to the night market area near the Royal Palace for cheap Khmer food: bai sach chrouk (pork and rice, $1.50), num banh chok (rice noodles with fish curry, $1), and Khmer red curry ($2). The riverside bars serve cold Angkor beer for $1 with views of the river and the distant Japanese Friendship Bridge.