Munich 3-day itinerary

Start at Marienplatz — the Glockenspiel on the New Town Hall chimes at 11am (mechanical knights, coopers' dance). Walk through the old town to the Viktualienmarkt — Munich's beloved daily market with 140 stalls selling Bavarian specialties. Traditional breakfast: Weisswurst (white sausage, €4–5) with sweet mustard, a pretzel, and a Weissbier — served only before noon, a sacred Bavarian tradition.

The Munich Residenz (€9, combined with Treasury €17) was the Wittelsbach palace for 500 years — 130 opulent rooms, the Antiquarium hall covered in frescoes, and the Treasury with crown jewels. Allow 2 hours. Walk to the bright yellow Theatinerkirche (free) — a Baroque masterpiece. Lunch at Schmalznudel (Café Frischhut) near Viktualienmarkt — legendary Schmalznudel doughnuts (€2) since 1973.

Munich without a beer hall is incomplete. Augustiner Bräustuben (Landsberger Str.) is the local favourite — authentic, less touristy than Hofbräuhaus, and serves Munich's most loved Augustiner Helles from wooden barrels. A Maß (litre, €10–11), Schweinshaxe (€16), and the buzz of Bavarian conviviality. Alternatively, Hofbräuhaus (since 1589) for the full oompah tourist experience.

The English Garden is one of the world's largest urban parks — bigger than Central Park. Start at the Eisbach wave where surfers ride a standing river wave year-round (near Haus der Kunst). Walk or cycle north through the park to the Chinese Tower beer garden (Chinesischer Turm, 6,000 seats). Rent a bike (€15/day from Spurwechsel) or walk the pastoral meadows and streams.

Munich's three Pinakotheken are world-class. The Alte Pinakothek (€7, €1 on Sundays) has Dürer, Rubens, and Raphael. The Neue Pinakothek covers 19th-century art (Monet, Van Gogh, Klimt). The Pinakothek der Moderne (€10, €1 Sundays) has modern art, design, and architecture. Choose one or two — all three in a day is overwhelming. Lunch at the museum cafes.

Schwabing is Munich's bohemian, university neighbourhood — Leopoldstraße is the main boulevard with cafes and cinemas. Walk the side streets for independent restaurants and bars. Dinner at Ruff's Burger (Munich's best burgers, €10–14) or Alter Simpl (historic pub, mains €12–18, where Thomas Mann used to drink). Walk to Münchner Freiheit for beer garden terraces.

Tram 17 to Nymphenburg Palace (€8 palace, €15 combined with park palaces) — the Wittelsbach summer residence. The Great Hall is a Rococo masterpiece, and King Ludwig I's Gallery of Beauties (portraits of 36 women he found beautiful) is fascinating. The 200-hectare park has lakes, canals, hidden pavilions, and the Amalienburg hunting lodge — one of Europe's most exquisite Rococo interiors.

Walk or metro to Olympiapark — built for the 1972 Olympics with iconic tent-roof architecture. The Olympic Tower (€13) has a viewing platform at 190m with Alpine views. BMW Welt next door is free — a futuristic showroom with concept cars and driving simulators. The BMW Museum (€10) traces automotive history. Lunch at the Olympiapark restaurants or nearby Schwabinger 7.

A proper Munich farewell is in a beer garden. Hirschgarten is the world's largest (8,000 seats, Augustiner Maß €10), where you can bring your own food (beer garden tradition). Alternatively, Augustiner Keller (Arnulfstraße) has ancient chestnut trees and a loyal local crowd. The Seehaus in the English Garden sits on a lake with sunset views. A Maß, a pretzel, and a Bavarian goodbye.