Lisbon 7-day itinerary

Start early at Castelo de São Jorge (€15) — Moorish fortifications with panoramic views over the Tagus, Alfama's terracotta rooftops, and the Ponte 25 de Abril bridge. Wander downhill through Alfama's labyrinthine lanes — azulejo-tiled facades, hole-in-the-wall tascas, cats sleeping on warm doorsteps, and the sound of fado drifting from windows.

Visit the Museu Nacional do Azulejo (€5) in a 16th-century convent — Portugal's stunning tile heritage from Moorish geometry to contemporary art. Walk to Miradouro da Graça and Miradouro da Senhora do Monte for the best viewpoints. Lunch at Mercado da Ribeira (Time Out Market) — gourmet stalls from Lisbon's top chefs (mains €8–15).

Dinner and live fado in Alfama. A Tasca do Chico has spontaneous sessions nightly (no cover, minimum €15 spend). Mesa de Frades performs in a converted chapel. Eat caldo verde (€4) and arroz de marisco (€16) while fadistas pour out songs of saudade — that untranslatable Portuguese longing. Arrive by 8pm for a table.

Tram 15E to Belém. Jerónimos Monastery (€10) is a UNESCO Manueline masterpiece — stone carved to look like coral, rope, and seaweed. Walk the cloisters. Then the Torre de Belém (€10) on the riverfront — the iconic departure point for Portuguese explorers. Combined ticket €16 online. Don't forget Pastéis de Belém — the original pastel de nata since 1837 (€1.40 each).

Walk the riverfront to MAAT (€11) — a wave-shaped contemporary museum with a walkable rooftop. Continue to LX Factory under the Ponte 25 de Abril — converted warehouses housing indie bookstores (Ler Devagar is spectacular), street art, vintage shops, and creative eateries. Lunch at Landeau Chocolate (legendary chocolate cake, €5.50).

Stay along the river for evening drinks at the Docas — a strip of converted warehouse restaurants and bars along the waterfront. Or head to Santos, a neighbourhood popular with students and artists. Dinner at Ponto Final across the river in Cacilhas (ferry from Cais do Sodré, €1.50) — grilled fish with Lisbon skyline views (mains €10–14). Ferry back at sunset.

Walk through the grid of Baixa — Lisbon's elegant downtown rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake. Start at Praça do Comércio on the waterfront, walk up Rua Augusta through the triumphal arch. The Elevador de Santa Justa (€5.30 or free with transport pass) gives aerial views from its iron neo-Gothic tower. Coffee at Fabrica Coffee Roasters on Rua das Portas de Santo Antão.

Explore Chiado — Lisbon's literary and bohemian quarter. Visit the roofless Carmo Convent (€5), destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and deliberately left in ruins — hauntingly beautiful. Browse A Vida Portuguesa for artisan Portuguese goods, Bertrand (the world's oldest bookshop, since 1732), and Luvaria Ulisses for handmade gloves. Lunch at Cervejaria Ramiro (prawns, €18) or Manteigaria for pastéis.

Walk up to Príncipe Real — Lisbon's trendiest neighbourhood. The garden square has a massive cedar tree creating a natural canopy over benches. Browse the concept stores and galleries, then sunset drinks at the garden kiosk. Dinner at Taberna da Rua das Flores (shared plates, €8–14, no reservations) or A Cevicheria (Peruvian-Portuguese fusion, €14–20).

First train from Rossio station to Sintra (€2.50, 40 minutes). Bus 434 to Pena Palace (€14) — a psychedelic hilltop castle in neon yellow, red, and blue that looks like a fairy tale. Wander the palace rooms and surrounding forest with giant ferns, hidden grottoes, and moss-covered paths. Views from the ramparts stretch to the Atlantic.

Walk downhill to Quinta da Regaleira (€10) — a Gothic mansion with underground tunnels and the famous Initiation Well: a 27-metre spiral staircase descending into the earth, connected to hidden grottoes. The gardens are full of Masonic and alchemical symbolism. Lunch in Sintra town — try travesseiros (almond pastries, €2) and queijadas (cheese tarts, €1.50) at Piriquita bakery.

Optional: Bus 403 from Sintra to Cabo da Roca (€5, 40 minutes) — the westernmost point of mainland Europe. Dramatic cliffs dropping into the Atlantic with a lighthouse and wild coastal scenery. Otherwise, return to Lisbon. Dinner at Cervejaria da Esquina in Campo de Ourique (seafood, €14–20) or A Cevicheria for their famous hanging octopus.

Explore Mouraria — Lisbon's most multicultural neighbourhood and the birthplace of fado. The streets around Intendente have been revitised with street art, community projects, and excellent ethnic food. Breakfast at Dear Breakfast on Largo do Intendente (€8–12). Walk through the narrow lanes where fado was born in the 19th century among fishermen and working-class families.

Browse the Feira da Ladra (thieves' market, Tuesday and Saturday) — Lisbon's famous flea market spreading across Campo de Santa Clara. Vintage tiles, retro cameras, vinyl, and Portuguese ceramics. Walk to the Panteão Nacional (€5) — a beautiful dome church with rooftop views. Lunch at O Velho Eurico for a classic bifana (pork sandwich, €3.50) with a Super Bock beer (€1.50).

Start at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara for sunset views with a beer. Then into Bairro Alto's grid of bars — hundreds in a few blocks. Ginjinha (cherry liqueur, €1.50) at A Ginjinha near Rossio. Move to Pink Street — Pensão Amor (former brothel turned bar, outrageous decor), Sol e Pesca (tinned fish bar with vinyl). Club at Lux-Frágil on the riverfront — Lisbon's best.

Bus from Praça de Espanha (TST 161, €3.40, 40 minutes) to Costa da Caparica — 30km of golden Atlantic beaches south of Lisbon. In summer, the Transpraia mini-train runs along the coast (€3 return) — each stop is a different beach. Stop 7–10 for the young surfer crowd, beach bars, and consistent waves. Rent a board (€15/half-day) or just swim in the Atlantic.

Lunch at a beach bar — grilled sardines (€8), fresh grilled sea bass (€12), and cold Super Bock (€2). The beach restaurants are casual, sandy-feet-welcome affairs with plastic chairs and paper tablecloths but incredible fresh fish. Try surfing if you haven't — the Costa's consistent waves make it one of Europe's best beginner spots.

Bus back to Lisbon or ferry from Trafaria. Take the Cacilhas ferry from Cais do Sodré (€1.50, 10 minutes) for sunset views of Lisbon's skyline from the south bank — one of the city's great free experiences. Dinner at Ponto Final in Cacilhas (grilled fish with Lisbon views, mains €10–14) or Atira-te ao Rio for a more upscale riverside experience.

Explore Campo de Ourique — a residential neighbourhood where real Lisboetas live. The Mercado de Campo de Ourique is a gourmet food hall with stalls serving everything from sushi to traditional Portuguese petiscos. Try alheira (smoked sausage, €6) and pica-pau (steak bites with pickles, €8). Browse the neighbourhood's independent bookshops and ceramic studios.

Head to A Vida Portuguesa on Rua Anchieta for beautifully packaged Portuguese products — sardine tins, soaps, ceramics. Visit Conserveira de Lisboa on Rua dos Bacalhoeiros for vintage tinned fish (€3–8 each, stunning retro packaging). Pick up azulejo tiles from the Feira da Ladra or a bottle of vinho verde (€4–6). Final pastéis de nata at Manteigaria.

Final sunset at Miradouro da Graça with a Super Bock in hand — the Castelo, rooftops, river, and bridge all in one panoramic view. Farewell dinner at Ramiro (go early to avoid queues) for tiger prawns and presunto, or keep it simple at Tascardoso in Mouraria for honest Portuguese food (mains €9–13). A ginjinha to toast the end of your Lisbon adventure.