Day 1: The Best of Lisbon in 24 Hours
Alfama: Castelo, Fado & Tiles
Start with Tram 28 from Martim Moniz up through Alfama's narrow lanes (€3.80 or free with Viva Viagem day pass). Get off at Largo da Graça and walk downhill through the ancient Moorish quarter: tiled facades, laundry lines, and fado music drifting from doorways. Visit the Castelo de São Jorge (€15) for panoramic views over the Tagus and terracotta rooftops. Grab a pastel de nata and bica at a corner cafe.
Belém: Monuments & Pastéis
Tram 15E or bus 728 to Belém (30 minutes). Visit the Torre de Belém (€10) and Jerónimos Monastery (€10), Manueline architecture at its finest. Then the obligatory pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém for the original pastel de nata (€1.40 each, order at least three). Sprinkle with cinnamon, not sugar. The MAAT museum (€11) on the waterfront has stunning architecture and river views.
Bairro Alto & Nightlife
Head to Bairro Alto as the sun sets. During the day it's quiet, but from 10pm it transforms into Lisbon's wildest nightlife district. Start with dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro for seafood (prawns, €18) or a cheaper bifana (pork sandwich, €3.50) at O Velho Eurico. Bars spill onto the streets. Grab €2 beers from Pavilhão Chinês or A Tasca do Chico for spontaneous fado.