Day 1: The Best of Lisbon in 24 Hours
Alfama — Castelo, Fado & Tiles
Start with Tram 28 from Martim Moniz up through Alfama's narrow lanes (€3.80 or free with Viva Viagem day pass). Get off at Largo da Graça and walk downhill through the ancient Moorish quarter — tiled facades, laundry lines, and fado music drifting from doorways. Visit the Castelo de São Jorge (€15) for panoramic views over the Tagus and terracotta rooftops. Grab a pastel de nata and bica at a corner cafe.
Belém — Monuments & Pastéis
Tram 15E or bus 728 to Belém (30 minutes). Visit the Torre de Belém (€10) and Jerónimos Monastery (€10) — Manueline architecture at its finest. Then the obligatory pilgrimage to Pastéis de Belém for the original pastel de nata (€1.40 each, order at least three). Sprinkle with cinnamon, not sugar. The MAAT museum (€11) on the waterfront has stunning architecture and river views.
Bairro Alto & Nightlife
Head to Bairro Alto as the sun sets — during the day it's quiet, but from 10pm it transforms into Lisbon's wildest nightlife district. Start with dinner at Cervejaria Ramiro for seafood (prawns, €18) or a cheaper bifana (pork sandwich, €3.50) at O Velho Eurico. Bars spill onto the streets — grab €2 beers from Pavilhão Chinês or A Tasca do Chico for spontaneous fado.