Jerash 3-day itinerary

Enter at 8am through Hadrian's Arch — a 13m-high triumphal gate built in 129 AD. Walk through the Hippodrome where chariot races entertained 15,000 spectators, past the remains of the city walls. The Oval Plaza (Forum) stops you in your tracks — a vast elliptical space ringed by 56 Ionic columns, unlike any other Roman forum. The Cardo Maximus stretches north — a colonnaded boulevard with original chariot ruts in the stone.

Climb to the Temple of Zeus (2nd century AD) for panoramic views over the entire site. Then the Temple of Artemis — a massive complex with 12m columns and the famous wobbling pillar that visibly sways. The South Theatre seats 3,000 and has extraordinary acoustics — whisper at the centre mark and it carries to the back row. The North Theatre is smaller but less crowded.

Explore the less-visited northern section — multiple Byzantine churches (5th–7th century) with partially intact mosaic floors depicting animals, seasons, and geometric patterns. The Church of Saints Cosmas and Damian has the best mosaics. Stay until closing time for sunset light on the columns — the warm glow transforms the stone from white to gold.

Drive 25 minutes west to Ajloun Castle (Qal'at ar-Rabad, JOD 3 or free with Jordan Pass) — a 12th-century Islamic fortress built by Saladin's generals to counter Crusader expansion. The castle sits atop a hill with commanding views of the Jordan Valley, and on clear days you can see the West Bank, the Sea of Galilee, and even Mount Hermon. Explore the dark passages, towers, and the small museum.

Continue to Ajloun Forest Reserve (RSCN, JOD 7) — one of the last remaining Mediterranean-type forests in the Middle East. Walk the 2km Roe Deer Trail through ancient oak, pistachio, and strawberry trees. The reserve protects roe deer, wild boar, and rare orchids. If staying overnight, the RSCN cabins (JOD 60–80) are excellent and proceeds support conservation.

Return to Jerash for dinner. The modern town has excellent local restaurants — try mansaf (lamb in dried yogurt sauce over rice) if you haven't yet. It's Jordan's national dish and served with generous hospitality. A full meal at a local restaurant costs JOD 3–5.

Drive 1.5 hours north to Umm Qais (ancient Gadara, JOD 3 or free with Jordan Pass) — a Greco-Roman city perched on a hilltop overlooking the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and the Yarmouk River gorge. The black basalt ruins include a theatre, colonnaded street, and Ottoman-era village built among the columns. One of the most dramatic settings of any archaeological site in the region.

Explore the ruins — the West Theatre, the Decumanus Maximus, and the underground mausoleum. The site museum in a restored Ottoman building has Hellenistic and Roman artefacts. Lunch at the Umm Qais Resthouse terrace — arguably the best restaurant view in Jordan, overlooking the Sea of Galilee. Fresh hummus, grilled meats, and Arabic salads for JOD 8–12.

Drive back via the Jordan Valley road — the lowest road in the world, dropping to 400m below sea level. The landscape shifts from green hills to arid desert as you descend. Return to Jerash or continue to Amman. If heading to Amman, the drive is 1.5 hours via the Amman–Jerash highway.