Hakone 3-day itinerary

Arrive at Hakone-Yumoto and begin the classic Hakone Loop. Take the Hakone Tozan Railway — Japan's steepest mountain railway — as it switchbacks up through forested valleys, crossing bridges over rushing streams. In June, the trackside hydrangeas are in full bloom. Transfer to the Hakone Tozan Cable Car at Gora, then continue to Sounzan where the Hakone Ropeway begins its dramatic 4km aerial journey over the volcanic landscape. The views from the gondola over the barren, steam-venting terrain are otherworldly.

Stop at Owakudani Station and walk the volcanic nature trail through active sulphur vents and bubbling mud pools. The landscape is stark and lunar — grey rock, yellow sulphur deposits, and wisps of steam rising from the earth. Buy the iconic black eggs at the summit kiosk. Continue by ropeway down to Lake Ashi at Togendai and board the pirate ship replica for the scenic cruise to Moto-Hakone. The lake is surrounded by dense forest with the Hakone mountains reflected in the still water.

Walk from Moto-Hakone pier along the ancient cedar avenue to Hakone Shrine, nestled deep in the forest at the lake's edge. The red torii gate standing in the water is one of Japan's most photographed scenes — visit in the late afternoon when the crowds thin and the light turns golden. Afterwards, dine at a lakeside restaurant on local Hakone specialities: yuba (tofu skin), soba noodles, and seasonal vegetables. Take the bus back to Hakone-Yumoto for the night.

Spend the morning at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, Japan's first outdoor sculpture park. Over 120 works are arranged across seven hectares of manicured grounds with mountain views in every direction. The Picasso Pavilion houses over 300 works spanning the artist's career. The Symphonic Sculpture — a spiralling tower of stained glass you can climb from inside — is extraordinary. Children and adults alike are drawn to the interactive installations and the foot bath where you can soak tired feet in naturally heated onsen water while admiring the art.

Take the bus to the Pola Museum of Art, hidden deep in the Hakone forest. The stunning glass-and-steel building houses an impressive collection of Impressionist and Japanese art — Monet, Renoir, and Picasso alongside traditional Japanese ceramics and glasswork. The museum's forest setting makes it feel like a gallery within nature. Afterwards, walk to Gora Park — a French-style landscaped garden with a tropical greenhouse, craft workshops, and another onsen foot bath. In spring, the roses and rhododendrons are spectacular.

Check into a traditional ryokan (Japanese inn) in the Hakone-Yumoto or Tonosawa area for the quintessential Japanese overnight experience. Wear the provided yukata (cotton robe) and geta (wooden sandals), soak in the private or communal onsen baths fed by natural volcanic springs, and sit down to a multi-course kaiseki dinner — an elaborate traditional Japanese meal served on lacquerware with seasonal ingredients. The combination of hot springs, tatami rooms, and kaiseki is one of Japan's great cultural experiences.

Walk a section of the Old Tokaido Road — the historic highway that connected Edo (Tokyo) to Kyoto during the feudal period. The stone-paved path through dense cedar forest between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-Yumoto follows the original route that samurai, merchants, and pilgrims walked for centuries. The 400-year-old cedar trees tower overhead, their roots interlocking with the ancient stone pavement. You'll pass the Hakone Checkpoint (Sekisho) — a reconstructed Edo-period border gate where travellers were inspected.

Stop at Amazake Chaya, a thatched-roof teahouse that has served travellers on the Tokaido Road for over 400 years. Sit on the wooden veranda and drink amazake (sweet fermented rice drink) and eat mochi (rice cakes) grilled over charcoal — exactly as Edo-period travellers did. Visit the Hakone Checkpoint Museum nearby to understand how the Tokugawa shogunate controlled movement between provinces. The reconstructed gate, guard towers, and exhibition bring the feudal period to life.

Before departing, squeeze in one last onsen visit at Hakone-Yumoto — the town has several excellent day-use facilities including Kappa Tengoku (an affordable open-air riverside bath) and Hakone Yuryo (a modern premium facility with forest views). The mineral-rich waters are the perfect way to end your Hakone trip. Take the Romancecar limited express train directly from Hakone-Yumoto to Shinjuku in 85 minutes — the observation seats at the front of the train offer panoramic mountain views as you descend back towards Tokyo.