Edinburgh 3-day itinerary

Start at Edinburgh Castle (£19.50 online) — perched on Castle Rock, an extinct volcanic plug. The Crown Jewels (Honours of Scotland), Stone of Destiny, and panoramic views from the Half Moon Battery are the highlights. St Margaret's Chapel — Edinburgh's oldest building from 1130 — is tiny but moving. The One O'Clock Gun fires daily (except Sunday) — a tradition since 1861 to help ships set their chronometers.

Walk the Royal Mile downhill — the medieval spine connecting the castle to Holyrood Palace. Duck into the closes (narrow alleys) branching off: Advocate's Close for views, Mary King's Close (£19) for a buried 17th-century street, and Dunbar's Close for a secret garden. Lunch at Oink on Victoria Street — pulled slow-roasted hog rolls (£5–7) that locals queue for. Visit St Giles' Cathedral (free, donation) for its Thistle Chapel.

Descend to the Grassmarket — a lively square below the castle walls with pubs, restaurants, and a gallows history. Dinner at the Grain Store on Victoria Street for modern Scottish cuisine (mains £16–24) or Ting Thai Caravan for excellent Thai at backpacker prices (mains £9–14). Then whisky: Bow Bar on Victoria Street (300+ bottles) or the Jolly Judge on James Court — a tiny pub hidden down a close.

Early morning hike up Arthur's Seat (251m) — an extinct volcano in Holyrood Park, right in the city centre. The 45-minute climb rewards you with 360° views of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth, the Pentland Hills, and on clear days, the Highlands. Multiple routes — the gentler path from Dunsapie Loch is scenic; the direct route from Holyrood is steeper. Always windy at the top — bring layers.

Walk through the New Town — Edinburgh's 18th-century Georgian planned district, a UNESCO site of crescents, squares, and gardens. Browse independent shops on Thistle Street and Rose Street. Visit the Scottish National Gallery (free) on the Mound — works by Raeburn, Ramsay, and Scottish Colourists alongside Vermeer, Monet, and van Gogh. Lunch at the gallery café or The Dome on George Street for a lavish interior.

Climb Calton Hill (10 minutes from Princes Street) for the classic Edinburgh panorama — the castle, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury Crags, and the Firth of Forth framed by the unfinished National Monument (Edinburgh's "Disgrace"). Then bus or walk to Leith — Edinburgh's port district, now a foodie hub. Dinner at The Shore on Leith Shore — Scottish seafood in a cozy waterfront setting (mains £16–22).

Walk to Dean Village — a fairy-tale former grain-milling village hidden in a gorge just minutes from the city centre. The Water of Leith Walkway follows the river through woodland past Victorian bridges and mill buildings. Continue to the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (free) — two buildings with Picasso, Hockney, and Paolozzi sculptures in landscaped grounds. The Landform Ueda grass sculpture is surreal.

Walk along the Water of Leith to Stockbridge — a village-like neighbourhood with independent shops, delis, and the famous Stockbridge Market (Sundays 10am–5pm). Browse vintage clothing, local cheese, and artisan bread. Lunch at Scran & Scallie — Tom Kitchin's gastropub on Comely Bank Road (mains £14–20) for elevated Scottish comfort food. Or grab a pie from Piemaker on South Bridge (£4.50).

Final evening in the Old Town. Dinner at Wedgwood on the Royal Mile — a Michelin-recommended restaurant using foraged Scottish ingredients (tasting menu £65 or mains £26–32). Or budget farewell at Mums Great Comfort Food on Forrest Road — haggis, neeps, and tatties for £12. One last whisky at the Cadenhead's Whisky Shop tasting bar on the Royal Mile. Walk the illuminated castle from the Grassmarket.