Cusco 3-day itinerary

Start at Plaza de Armas where the colonial Cathedral and La Compañía church face each other across the square that was once the ceremonial heart of the Inca Empire. Explore the surrounding streets to find the famous Inca walls — massive stones fitted with millimetre precision, the foundations of colonial buildings built directly on top. The 12-angled stone on Hatunrumiyoc street is the most visited example. Cusco's stone streets and terracotta rooftops are beautiful in the early morning light before the crowds arrive.

Explore Mercado San Pedro, the vibrant central market where Cusqueños shop for everything from fresh cheese and dried herbs to alpaca clothing and medicinal plants. Eat lunch at the market counters — caldo de gallina, lomo saltado, or ají de gallina for under 10 soles. After lunch, visit the ChocoMuseo near the plaza for a free chocolate-making workshop using Peruvian cacao. Browse the artisan shops along Cuesta San Blas as you climb towards the San Blas neighbourhood.

Wander the steep cobblestone streets of San Blas, Cusco's artisan quarter with workshops, galleries, and intimate restaurants tucked into colonial courtyards. The Plazoleta de San Blas is a lovely square to sit and watch the evening light. End the day with a pisco sour at a balcony bar overlooking Plaza de Armas — the classic Peruvian cocktail made with pisco, lime, egg white, and bitters is the perfect sundowner. Museo del Pisco on the plaza offers excellent tastings.

Walk or taxi uphill to Sacsayhuamán, the enormous Inca fortress complex overlooking Cusco. The zigzag walls stretch over 600 metres and are built from limestone blocks weighing up to 200 tonnes, fitted together without mortar so precisely that a sheet of paper cannot slide between them. The engineering feat remains unexplained — how the Inca moved and shaped these massive stones at 3,700m altitude without wheels or iron tools is one of archaeology's great mysteries. The panoramic view of Cusco from the fortress walls is stunning.

Continue uphill to the trio of smaller Inca sites above Cusco. Qenqo is a carved limestone outcrop with an underground chamber used for ceremonial purposes — the zigzag channels carved into the rock were likely used for chicha (corn beer) offerings. Puka Pukara was a military checkpoint or rest stop on the road to the Sacred Valley. Tambomachay is a beautifully engineered water temple where natural springs still flow through carved stone channels exactly as the Inca designed them centuries ago. All three are covered by the Boleto Turístico.

Return to central Cusco for dinner at one of the city's excellent restaurants. Try cuy (roast guinea pig) — Cusco's signature dish and a pre-Inca delicacy — or alpaca steak, which is lean, tender, and surprisingly delicate. The restaurant scene in Cusco ranges from $3 market meals to world-class fine dining. After dinner, explore the nightlife on Calle Procuradores — known locally as "Gringo Alley" — where bars and clubs cater to the international backpacker crowd with salsa nights and live music.

Take a colectivo from Cusco to Pisac in the Sacred Valley (1.5 hours, 10 soles). The Inca ruins of Pisac sit high above the town — a vast complex of terraces, temples, and an Inca cemetery carved into the mountainside with over 1,000 tombs. The scale is breathtaking and the site receives a fraction of the visitors that Machu Picchu sees. On Sundays, the Pisac market fills the main square with textiles, ceramics, and produce from surrounding communities. The Sacred Valley sits at 2,900m — noticeably lower and warmer than Cusco.

Continue by colectivo to Ollantaytambo, a living Inca town where the original stone channels still carry water through the narrow streets. Climb the steep terraces to the fortress at the top — an unfinished Inca temple complex where massive pink granite blocks were transported from a quarry 6km away on the opposite side of the valley. The Wall of Six Monoliths at the summit is extraordinary, and the views down over the valley and town are among the finest in the region. This was the site of the Inca's only military victory against the Spanish conquistadors.

Take a colectivo back to Cusco through the Sacred Valley as the late afternoon light turns the terraced hillsides golden. The journey passes through small Andean villages and agricultural communities where traditional farming methods persist unchanged. Arrive back in Cusco for a final evening exploring the city's restaurant scene. Try causa (layered potato and seafood terrine) or anticuchos (grilled beef heart skewers) — both are classic Peruvian dishes best eaten in Cusco's lively market and street food scene.