Day 1: Buda, Baths & Ruin Bars in 24 Hours
Buda Castle & Fisherman's Bastion
Take bus 16 from Deák Ferenc tér to Buda Castle. Walk through the castle district's cobblestone streets past pastel-coloured baroque houses. Fisherman's Bastion is free before 9am. The seven turrets frame a postcard-perfect panorama of the Parliament building across the Danube. Visit Matthias Church (2,000 HUF) with its stunning Zsolnay ceramic roof tiles. Grab a lángos from a street vendor on the way down.
Széchenyi Thermal Baths
Metro M1 (the oldest on the continent) to Széchenyi fürdő station. Széchenyi Baths (7,200 HUF with locker) is a stunning neo-baroque palace of 18 pools fed by natural hot springs. Soak in the 38°C outdoor pool. The sight of steam rising from bright yellow buildings while you float is pure Budapest. The chess-playing grandpas in the water are a bonus. Allow 2–3 hours.
Ruin Bars of the Jewish Quarter
The ruin bar scene is Budapest's greatest gift to nightlife. Start at Szimpla Kert on Kazinczy utca, the original ruin bar set in a derelict apartment building filled with mismatched furniture, bathtubs, and a Trabant car. Try a fröccs (wine spritzer, 600 HUF). Walk to Instant-Fogas, a multi-level maze of dance floors and bars. Street food at Karaván next door: langós, chimney cake, and craft beer.