Athens 3-day itinerary

Arrive at 8am — the Acropolis is magical in morning light with fewer crowds. The Parthenon, the Erechtheion's Caryatid porch, the Temple of Athena Nike, and sweeping views over Athens to the sea. The combined ticket (€30) covers the Acropolis plus the Ancient Agora, Roman Agora, Temple of Zeus, Hadrian's Library, and Kerameikos for five days — exceptional value.

The Acropolis Museum (€10) is world-class — the Parthenon Gallery recreates the frieze at original height with glass walls framing the actual Parthenon outside. Then walk to the Ancient Agora (included in combined ticket) — the heart of Athenian democracy where Socrates debated. The Temple of Hephaestus is the best-preserved Greek temple anywhere. Lunch at O Thanasis near Monastiraki (souvlaki pita, €3.50).

Wander through Plaka — Athens' oldest neighbourhood with neoclassical houses and bougainvillea. Climb to Anafiotika — a tiny Cycladic village tucked on the north slope of the Acropolis, with whitewashed houses that look like they belong on Santorini. Sunset drinks at A for Athens rooftop (cocktails €10–12, Acropolis views). Dinner at Avocado on Nikis Street (vegetarian, mains €8–12).

Explore the Athens Central Market (Varvakios) on Athinas Street — a raucous, aromatic covered market selling fish, meat, olives, cheese, and herbs since 1886. Then walk to Monastiraki Flea Market — antique shops, vintage vinyl, military surplus, and bric-a-brac spill onto Avissinias Square. Sunday morning is the biggest market day. Coffee at Six d.o.g.s on Avramiotou — a creative cafe with a secret garden.

Walk to Exarchia — Athens' anarchist quarter and most culturally alive neighbourhood. Every wall is covered in political street art and graffiti that tells the story of Greece's economic crisis and social movements. Browse independent bookshops, record stores, and cafes on Valtetsiou and Kallidromiou streets. Lunch at Vegan Nation (€7–10) or Ama Lachei stou Psyrri (meze, €6–10).

Dinner in Psyrri — Karamanlidika tou Fani for cured meats and meze from Constantinople tradition (€8–12 per plate). Then walk to Gazi — Athens' main nightlife district around the old gasworks (Technopolis). Bars like Noel (Christmas-themed year-round), Baba Au Rum (cocktails, regularly on World's 50 Best), and clubs along Voutadon Street keep going until sunrise. Cover €5–10.

Start at the Temple of Olympian Zeus (combined ticket) — only 15 of the original 104 massive columns remain, but the scale is humbling. Hadrian's Arch marks the boundary between ancient and Roman Athens. Then walk through the National Garden — a shady oasis with a duck pond, botanical garden, and the Zappeion exhibition hall. Coffee at Couleur Locale rooftop near Monastiraki (espresso €3).

Walk to the Panathenaic Stadium (€10) — the marble stadium rebuilt for the first modern Olympics in 1896, on the site of the ancient Games. Stand on the track and imagine the crowd. Then explore Kolonaki — Athens' most elegant neighbourhood at the foot of Lycabettus Hill. Browse the boutiques, galleries, and cafes around Patriarchou Ioakim Street. Lunch at Paradosiako on Voulis (traditional meze, €7–10).

Final Athens dinner at Kosta on Platia Agia Irini — a souvlaki counter that's been open since 1950 and serves arguably the best souvlaki in the city (€2.80 for a pita wrap). Or splurge at Spondi (Michelin-starred, tasting menu €95) or Nolan (Greek-Japanese fusion, mains €16–22). Farewell drinks back at A for Athens or 360° Bar for one last illuminated Acropolis panorama.