Zurich 7-day itinerary

Start at Grossmünster — climb the Karlsturm (CHF 5) for Old Town views. Cross to Fraumünster for Chagall's stained-glass windows (CHF 5). Walk up to Lindenhof for panoramic views. Coffee at Café Sprüngli — Luxemburgerli macarons (CHF 1.20 each) since 1836.

Walk Bahnhofstrasse to the lake. Swim at Seebad Enge (CHF 8), rent a pedalo (CHF 22/hour), or walk the Zürichhorn promenade past the Chinese Garden (free). The Alps frame the southern horizon on clear days. Lunch at Sternen Grill (Bratwurst im Bürli, CHF 8.50).

Dinner at Zeughauskeller (500-year-old armoury, Zürcher Geschnetzeltes CHF 28–35) or Raclette Factory (from CHF 16). Walk the Limmat at night — both churches reflected in the water. Drinks at Rimini Bar (riverside) or Bar am Wasser under the Rathaus bridge.

Kunsthaus (CHF 23, free Wednesdays) — Chipperfield's 2021 extension holds Giacometti, Rothko, and the largest Munch collection outside Norway. The original building has Monet, Picasso, and Zurich's Dada heritage (Cabaret Voltaire, where Dada was born in 1916, is a 5-minute walk).

S10 from Zurich HB to Uetliberg (30 min). Zurich's 871m mountain with panoramic city, lake, and Alpine views. Walk the Planetenweg to Felsenegg (6km, easy) or the Gratweg ridge trail. Cable car down to Adliswil (CHF 8). Pack a picnic from Coop or Migros for the summit.

Im Viadukt Markthalle for artisan food. Dinner at Frau Gerolds Garten (container garden, mains CHF 22–32) or Chez Fritz in the Gerold Cuchi complex. Langstrasse for nightlife — International, Gonzo, and Hive Club for electronic music.

Landesmuseum (CHF 10, free Saturday afternoons) — Switzerland's history in a neo-Gothic castle. Medieval rooms, Reformation history, and exhibitions on Swiss democracy and neutrality. Walk through Platzspitz Park where the Sihl and Limmat rivers meet.

In summer, Zurich swims. Join locals at Oberer Letten (free) — a converted river bathing spot on the Limmat with a bar, DJ sets, and swimming in the fast-flowing turquoise river. Or Frauenbadi (women only until 8pm, then co-ed bar) with views of the Old Town. The Flussbad culture is uniquely Zurich — no other city lets you swim through its centre like this.

Explore Seefeld — the neighbourhood along the lake's eastern shore with boutiques, wine bars, and excellent restaurants. Dinner at Seefeld's Haus Hiltl (vegetarian) or Razzia (brasserie in a former cinema, mains CHF 25–38). Wine at Barchetta on Seefeldstrasse or cocktails at Tales Bar (one of the world's best bars).

Direct train from Zurich HB to Lucerne (CHF 25, 45 minutes). Lucerne is Switzerland on a postcard — a medieval old town on a lake surrounded by mountains. Cross the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke), Europe's oldest covered wooden bridge (1333), with its painted panels. Visit the Lion Monument — a dying lion carved into rock, described by Mark Twain as the saddest stone in the world.

Take a lake cruise on the Vierwaldstättersee (1-hour round trip, CHF 28). The lake is surrounded by Alps on all sides — deep green water, dramatic peaks, and a sense of being entirely inside the mountains. Alternatively, ride the Pilatus gondola (CHF 72 return) for one of the most spectacular mountain panoramas in Switzerland. Lunch at Rathaus Brauerei on the river (bratwurst and beer, CHF 18–25).

Train back to Zurich by early evening. Dinner at Hiltl (world's oldest vegetarian restaurant, buffet CHF 4.80/100g) or Tibet Restaurant on Zähringerstrasse (Tibetan momos, CHF 16–22 — one of Zurich's best-value restaurants). Evening stroll along the Limmat or drinks at Nietturm on Schiffbauplatz (craft beer in a former turbine hall).

Train to Neuhausen Rheinfall (CHF 15, 50 minutes). The Rhine Falls are Europe's largest waterfall — 150m wide and 23m high, thundering with 600 cubic metres of water per second. Take a boat to the rock in the middle (CHF 7) for a drenching close-up. Walk along both banks for different perspectives. The Schloss Laufen viewing platform (CHF 5) has the best vantage point.

Train to Winterthur (20 min from Neuhausen). This small city has an outsized art scene — Museum Oskar Reinhart (CHF 12) has Impressionists and Old Masters. The Fotomuseum (CHF 12) is Switzerland's premier photography museum. Walk through the charming Old Town and the Stadtpark gardens. Lunch at Blinde Kuh (dining in total darkness, CHF 45–65 for 3 courses — unique experience).

Return to Zurich for a relaxed evening. Dinner at Raclette Factory in Niederdorf (raclette from CHF 16 — melted cheese scraped onto potatoes with pickles) or Kronenhalle on Rämistrasse (classic Swiss, mains CHF 35–55, art by Picasso, Chagall, and Matisse on the walls). Drinks at Dante on Mühlegasse or the rooftop at 25hours Hotel Langstrasse.

If Saturday, visit the Bürkliplatz Flohmarkt — Zurich's best flea market along the lake with vintage, antiques, and food stalls. Otherwise, explore the Saturday Helvetiaplatz market in Zürich West (organic farmers, street food). Buy Swiss chocolate at Läderach (handmade, try the FrischSchoggi) or Teuscher on Storchengasse (champagne truffles, CHF 2.50 each).

Tram to Museum Rietberg (CHF 18) in the beautiful Rieterpark — Switzerland's only museum of non-European art, with collections from Asia, Africa, and the Americas in a hilltop villa. The Smaragd extension is architecturally stunning. Walk through Rieterpark — one of Zurich's most scenic green spaces with lake and Alpine views.

A proper Swiss fondue evening. Le Dézaley on Römergasse (fondue moitié-moitié, CHF 28) is the classic choice — Vaudois atmosphere with wooden beams and wine from their own vineyards. Or Chässtube on Lagerstrasse for a more modern take. Half a litre of Fendant wine (CHF 15), crusty bread cubes, and a pot of molten Gruyère and Vacherin. Don't drink cold water with fondue — the Swiss say it solidifies the cheese.

One last morning at the lake or river. Swim at Badi Tiefenbrunnen (CHF 8, lakeside with diving boards) or float down the Limmat from Oberer Letten. The ritual of morning swimming and coffee is quintessentially Zurich. Dry off and walk through the Altstadt one last time — peek into the Augustinergasse, Zurich's prettiest street with its painted facades.

Final shopping. Migros and Coop supermarkets have excellent Swiss chocolate for a fraction of boutique prices (Frey, Cailler, Ragusa bars CHF 3–5). For gifts, Swiss army knives from Victorinox on Rennweg, Sigg water bottles, or a bottle of Swiss wine from Baur au Lac Vins. Lunch at the Markthalle Im Viadukt food court (diverse options, CHF 12–20).

Farewell dinner at Clouds (36th floor of Prime Tower, prix fixe CHF 85, panoramic views) for a splurge, or Tibits (vegetarian buffet, CHF 4.60/100g) by the station for budget. Final drinks at Frau Gerolds Garten if summer, or Widder Bar (hotel bar with live jazz, cocktails CHF 20–28). Watch the lights on the lake one last time from Bürkliplatz.