Seville 3-day itinerary

Be at the Real Alcázar (€14.50) at 9:30am opening — this Mudéjar palace is one of the most extraordinary buildings in Europe. The Patio de las Doncellas, with its reflecting pool and carved stucco arches, was used as Dorne in Game of Thrones. The gardens are a maze of fountains, pavilions, and orange groves. Allow 2 hours to wander without rushing — the tilework alone deserves slow attention.

Cross to the Seville Cathedral (€11) — the world's largest Gothic cathedral. Find Columbus's tomb (carried by four kings), then climb the Giralda tower's 35 ramps (designed for horses, not stairs) for the best panoramic view in Seville. Tapas lunch at Bodega Santa Cruz on Rodrigo Caro — locals pack the counter for montaditos (€2.50) and cold beer. Walk through the Barrio de Santa Cruz's jasmine-draped alleys.

Cross the Puente de Isabel II to Triana — the bohemian barrio and flamenco birthplace. Walk Calle Betis for golden-hour views of the cathedral and Torre del Oro across the Guadalquivir. Dinner at Casa Cuesta on Calle Castilla — Triana's oldest bar (since 1880) serving classic sevillano tapas. End with drinks at the riverside terraces on Calle Betis — the view never gets old.

Start at Plaza de España — a sweeping 1929 semi-circular plaza with a moat, tiled alcoves representing each Spanish province, and Renaissance Revival architecture that feels like a film set (it was — Star Wars Episode II). Rent a rowboat on the moat (€6 for 35 min). Walk through the adjacent Parque de María Luisa — the city's most beautiful park with Moorish fountains, tile-lined benches, and shaded promenades.

Cross to Triana for the Mercado de Triana — a modern food market built on the site of the Inquisition's castle (archaeological remains visible under glass floors). Lunch at the market counters — fresh fried fish, jamón ibérico, and cold gazpacho. Walk along Calle San Jorge and Calle Alfarería for Triana's famous ceramic workshops — hand-painted azulejos (tiles) make beautiful souvenirs from €5.

Book a flamenco show at Casa de la Memoria (€22) or La Casa del Flamenco (€22) — intimate venues where you feel every footstep vibrate through the floor. Then head to the Alameda de Hércules — Seville's hippest plaza, lined with bars and terrace cafes. Try Fun Club for dancing, Eslava on Calle Eslava for award-winning tapas (book ahead, mains €8–14), or just settle into the Alameda vibe.

Start at the Metropol Parasol (Las Setas) on Plaza de la Encarnación — the world's largest wooden structure, a surreal mushroom-shaped canopy. The walkway on top (€5) offers unique rooftop views over the old town. The archaeological museum underneath (included) has Roman ruins. Walk north to the La Macarena neighbourhood — traditional, untouristy barrio with the Basilica de la Macarena and its famous weeping Virgin.

Lunch at the Mercado Lonja del Barranco — a Gustave Eiffel-designed iron market on the riverfront with gourmet tapas stalls, cocktail bars, and excellent jamón ibérico carving stations. Walk through the shopping streets of Calle Sierpes and Calle Tetuán for souvenirs — olive oil, hand-painted fans (abanicos), and sherry from a specialist wine shop. Visit the Hospital de los Venerables for its Velázquez painting.

The ultimate Seville farewell: a tapas crawl through the old town. Start at El Rinconcillo on Gerona — Seville's oldest bar since 1670, where the tab is chalked on the wooden counter. Then Bar Europa on Alcaicería for fried aubergine with honey (berenjenas con miel). Finish at Eslava near the Alameda for their legendary slow-cooked egg tapa. Walk the illuminated streets of Santa Cruz one final time.