Santiago 3-day itinerary

Funicular from Pío Nono (CLP 3,300 return) up Cerro San Cristóbal — the view from the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción statue is Santiago's defining moment. The entire city spreads below with the Andes forming a colossal snow-capped wall to the east. Walk through Parque Metropolitano — one of the world's largest urban parks (722 hectares). Coffee at Emporio La Rosa in Bellavista on the way down (CLP 2,500–4,000).

Visit Pablo Neruda's La Chascona (CLP 8,000) — the Nobel laureate's quirky Santiago home built for his lover, filled with ship-like staircases, art collections, and personal objects. The audio guide is excellent. Walk through Bellavista — Santiago's bohemian quarter with street art murals on every block, craft shops, and lively restaurants. Lunch at Galindo for classic Chilean food — pastel de choclo (CLP 6,000–8,000).

Barrio Lastarria is Santiago's cultural jewel — cobblestone streets, heritage buildings, galleries, and the GAM cultural centre (free exhibitions). Dinner at Bocanariz for Chilean wine flights (CLP 12,000–18,000 for 5 wines) paired with small plates. Or eat at Liguria for classic bistro fare in a buzzing atmosphere (CLP 7,000–12,000). The street performers and antique book stalls add charm.

Start at Plaza de Armas — Santiago's colonial plaza with the Cathedral, Correo Central, and street chess players. Walk Paseo Ahumada to the Palacio de La Moneda (free guided tours, book at palaciodelamoneda.cl). The neoclassical palace is where Allende's last stand happened in 1973. The underground Centro Cultural has rotating exhibitions (CLP 3,000). Walk through Paseo Bandera — a street painted with colourful murals.

Walk to the Mercado Central — an ornate 19th-century iron structure housing seafood restaurants and the freshest fish in Santiago. Eat at the perimeter stalls (not the centre restaurants which charge tourist prices) — caldillo de congrio (conger eel soup, CLP 5,000–8,000), ceviche, or a paila marina (seafood stew, CLP 6,000–10,000). Then head to Barrio Italia — a former warehouse district now home to vintage shops, cafes, and galleries.

Barrio Italia is Santiago's emerging creative hub — converted warehouses housing antique dealers, design studios, vinyl shops, and micro-roasteries. Walk Avenida Italia and the passages (pasajes) between buildings for hidden cafes and galleries. Dinner at De Patio for creative small plates (CLP 5,000–9,000) or Silvestre for seasonal Chilean cuisine. Craft cocktails at Bar The Singular (CLP 6,000–9,000).

Climb Cerro Santa Lucía (free) — a manicured hilltop park in the centre with fountains, terraces, and city views. The Spanish founded Santiago here in 1541. Walk to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (free) — Chile's finest art museum in a gorgeous Beaux-Arts building. The permanent collection includes Chilean and international works. Brunch at Café de la Candelaria in Lastarria (CLP 5,000–8,000).

Chile is one of the world's great wine countries. For a half-day vineyard visit, take the metro to Concha y Toro winery in Pirque (CLP 15,000–25,000 for tours with tasting, 45 min from the centre). Alternatively, stay in the city and do a guided wine tasting at Bocanariz or The Wine Loft (CLP 15,000–25,000 for a flight of 5–7 wines). Chilean Carménère is unique — you cannot get it anywhere else.

For your final night, try a terremoto — Chile's infamous cocktail of pipeño wine and pineapple ice cream (CLP 3,000–5,000). La Piojera bar near Mercado Central is the legendary birthplace — a rough, loud, utterly authentic bar where everyone from politicians to backpackers shares wooden tables. Then to Patio Bellavista for a final dinner — the courtyard of restaurants, galleries, and bars is lit up and lively every evening.