San Francisco 7-day itinerary

Rent a bike at Blazing Saddles near Fisherman's Wharf ($35/half-day) and ride along the waterfront through Crissy Field to the Golden Gate Bridge. Cross the 1.7-mile span — the views of the bay, Alcatraz, and Marin Headlands are staggering. Continue 3 miles downhill to Sausalito, a charming waterfront town with galleries, cafes, and houseboats. Coffee at Equator Coffees in the Ferry Terminal. Take the Golden Gate Ferry back to the city ($14).

Walk to the Palace of Fine Arts — a Roman-inspired rotunda and lagoon originally built for the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition. It's free, stunning, and a popular wedding photo spot. Continue through the Marina District — wealthy, beautiful, and with a Chestnut Street strip of cafes and boutiques. Lunch at Super Duper Burgers on Chestnut ($10–14 for a fresh-ground burger with organic toppings) or Delarosa for Roman-style pizza ($14–18).

Head to North Beach — the Italian quarter. Browse City Lights Bookstore (the Beat Generation's literary home, free) and grab espresso at Caffe Trieste ($4) where Coppola wrote The Godfather. Dinner at Tony's Pizza Napoletana ($16–22) or Tomaso's coal-fired pizza ($18–24). Climb to Coit Tower for sunset views. After dinner, Vesuvio Cafe (Kerouac's bar) for cocktails ($14), then Specs' Twelve Adler Museum Cafe — a divey, eccentric bar covered in maritime memorabilia.

Ferry from Pier 33 ($42 day tour, book weeks ahead at alcatrazcruises.com). The cellhouse audio tour narrated by former inmates and guards is gripping. Walk the cell blocks, the recreation yard, the solitary confinement "Hole," and trace the escape route of the 1962 breakout. The island also has beautiful gardens tended by inmates' families. Allow 2.5–3 hours. The ferry ride offers stunning bay views of the city, bridge, and Angel Island.

Return to the Embarcadero and walk to the Ferry Building — a gourmet food hall with Blue Bottle Coffee ($5), Cowgirl Creamery cheeses, and Hog Island Oyster Bar (6 oysters for $22). On Saturdays, the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market (8am–2pm) is one of the best in America. Walk the Embarcadero waterfront south to AT&T Park and the piers. The Exploratorium ($30) at Pier 15 is a hands-on science museum that's surprisingly fun for adults.

Walk through the Financial District's canyon of skyscrapers to the Transamerica Pyramid and the historic Jackson Square neighborhood. Enter Chinatown through the Dragon's Gate — Stockton Street is the authentic heart with produce markets and herbal shops. Dinner dim sum at Good Mong Kok Bakery ($3–5 per item) or a full Cantonese feast at R&G Lounge ($15–25 per dish, family-style). Evening cocktails at Li Po Lounge on Grant — a dive bar with Chinese lanterns and cheap Mai Tais ($8).

Walk Haight Street — the epicenter of the 1967 Summer of Love. The Painted Ladies Victorian houses at Alamo Square (the Full House houses) are a 10-minute detour and the city's most photographed row. Haight Street has vintage shops, Amoeba Music (the best independent record store in America), and counterculture history. Breakfast at Pork Store Cafe on Haight ($12–16) — heaping plates of eggs, potatoes, and pancakes that fuel your entire day.

Walk into Golden Gate Park — 1,017 acres stretching to the Pacific, larger than Central Park. The California Academy of Sciences ($42) has an aquarium, planetarium, rainforest dome, and living green roof all under one roof. Or the de Young Museum ($15) for American and international art in a stunning copper-clad building with a free observation tower. The Japanese Tea Garden ($12) is the oldest in the US — serene paths, koi ponds, and a pagoda. Tea and cookies ($7) in the teahouse.

Exit the park's west end to Ocean Beach — miles of wild Pacific coastline. The beach is often cold and windy but dramatic and beautiful. Watch surfers tackle the powerful breaks. Walk to the Outer Sunset for dinner at Outerlands on Judah Street — a rustic-industrial cafe with house-baked bread and seasonal dishes ($18–26). Or Noriega Street for the neighborhood's diverse food scene. Take the N-Judah Muni back to downtown.

Start in the Mission at Balmy Alley — an entire alleyway of murals covering political, cultural, and Latin American themes. Clarion Alley nearby has more eclectic street art. Walk 24th Street for the neighborhood's Latin soul — panaderias, taquerias, and produce markets. Breakfast at Tartine Bakery on Guerrero Street — their morning bun ($5.50) and croissants are legendary, but the line can be 30+ minutes. Or grab a breakfast burrito at El Farolito ($10).

Walk to Dolores Park — SF's favorite outdoor hangout. On sunny days, the hillside is packed with picnickers, DJs, and dogs. Views of downtown from the top are stunning. Grab a Mission burrito from La Taqueria ($12–14) to eat in the park. Then walk to the Castro — the historic heart of LGBTQ+ America. The rainbow crosswalks, Harvey Milk's camera shop memorial, and the Castro Theatre's neon sign are all iconic. Browse the GLBT Historical Society Museum ($5).

The Mission has the city's best nightlife. Start at ABV on 16th Street for craft cocktails ($15–18) — their menu is encyclopedic. Move to Trick Dog on 20th Street for creative cocktails with rotating themed menus ($16). For beer, Zeitgeist on Valencia has a massive beer garden and 40+ taps ($6–8). El Rio on Army Street has Thursday Latin dance nights that pack the courtyard. For late-night food, a super burrito from El Farolito at 2am is an SF rite of passage.

Drive or take a tour bus an hour north to Sonoma — more laid-back and affordable than Napa. Start at the historic Sonoma Plaza, the largest town square in California. Walk to Vella Cheese Company (free samples of dry jack cheese) and the Sonoma Mission (1823). Drive the Sonoma Highway (Route 12) through the valley. First tasting at Gundlach Bundschu — the oldest family-owned winery in California, tastings from $30 for 5 wines in a stunning hilltop setting.

Continue to two more wineries. Buena Vista Winery ($30 tasting) is California's oldest commercial winery, set in an 1857 stone building. For something different, Scribe Winery ($55 tasting with food pairing) has a Hacienda-style property with natural wines and a stunning pink-walled courtyard. Lunch at the Girl & the Fig on Sonoma Plaza — French country cuisine with local ingredients ($18–28 mains). Designate a driver or book a guided tour that includes transport ($90–150 per person).

Drive back to SF via the Golden Gate Bridge for one of the world's most scenic commutes. If you're not too wine-sleepy, explore Pacific Heights — the city's wealthiest neighborhood with stunning Victorian mansions and sweeping bay views from the Lyon Street Steps. Dinner at Dosa on Fillmore Street — South Indian dosas and curries ($16–22) in a vibrant atmosphere. End with drinks at The Snug on Fillmore — a cozy neighborhood cocktail bar with fireplace seating ($14–16).

San Francisco's Japantown is one of only three remaining in the US. Walk through the Japan Center Mall — Japanese bookshops, anime stores, and Kinokuniya (a two-floor Japanese bookstore). Breakfast at Hinodeya Ramen ($14–16 bowls) — their dashi broth is legendary. Browse Daiso (Japanese $1.50 store, $2 in the US) for quirky souvenirs. The Peace Pagoda in the plaza was a gift from the people of Japan. Ichiban Kan has Japanese snacks, kitchenware, and stationery.

Head to SOMA for SFMOMA ($25, free first Thursdays) — the expanded museum has a living green wall facade and world-class modern and contemporary art. The photography collection is exceptional. Walk to Yerba Buena Gardens (free) — a rooftop park with a waterfall memorial, carousel, and ice skating rink. The Museum of the African Diaspora ($12) and the Contemporary Jewish Museum ($16) are both nearby and excellent. Lunch at Benu for high-end Korean-influenced fine dining or Lers Ros Thai ($12–16) for budget.

San Francisco invented the modern tiki bar culture. Smuggler's Cove on Gough Street is the pinnacle — a three-story pirate ship interior with 400 rums and flaming cocktails ($14–18). The Zombie cocktail is limited to one per customer. Then Whitechapel — a gin palace hidden in an underground tunnel with 400+ gins ($14–16). For food, Mikkeller Bar in SOMA has 40 craft beer taps and California-style bar food ($12–18). Late night at Bourbon & Branch — a speakeasy requiring a password (book online).

Drive 30 minutes north across the Golden Gate Bridge to Muir Woods ($15 per person, parking reservation required at $9). Walk among ancient coastal redwood trees — some over 250 feet tall and 1,000 years old. The Cathedral Grove and Bohemian Grove are the most awe-inspiring stands. The main loop is 2 miles and flat. For more adventure, the Ben Johnson Trail climbs to panoramic views. The forest floor is often misty and silent — it feels prehistoric.

Return to the city and head to the Ferry Building for final souvenirs — Recchiuti Chocolates, local olive oil, and artisan preserves make great gifts. Grab a final meal at Hog Island Oyster Bar (6 oysters $22) or Acme Bread Company (free samples). Walk to Boudin Bakery at Fisherman's Wharf to watch sourdough being made and buy a loaf for the flight ($8). Browse Ghirardelli Square for chocolate gifts.

For a final SF memory, head to Twin Peaks — the 360-degree view of the city at night is breathtaking (free, drive up or Uber). Or walk to the Top of the Mark at the Mark Hopkins Hotel on Nob Hill — a legendary cocktail lounge ($20 cover Fri/Sat) with floor-to-ceiling windows and city views. Farewell dinner at Swan Oyster Depot on Polk Street (counter-only, cash, closes at 5:30pm — go for a late lunch) or Zuni Cafe on Market Street for their famous roast chicken ($72, serves two).