Prague 7-day itinerary

Prague Castle (short circuit 250 CZK). St. Vitus Cathedral has the Mucha stained glass and the Wenceslas Chapel encrusted with semi-precious stones. The Old Royal Palace's Vladislav Hall has a staircase wide enough for mounted knights. Golden Lane's colourful houses include Kafka's No. 22. The castle gardens cascade down to Malá Strana with views over the city.

Walk through Malá Strana — Church of St. Nicholas (100 CZK, Prague's finest baroque interior), the Lennon Wall, and the Wallenstein Garden (free, peacocks roam among Renaissance arcades). Cross Charles Bridge at a quieter moment. Lunch at Lokál Dlouhááá (tank Pilsner 59 CZK, svíčková 249 CZK) — the most reliable Czech restaurant in the centre.

Watch the Astronomical Clock at the top of the hour. Dinner at U Zlatého Tygra (Golden Tiger) — standing room, no-frills, and the best Pilsner Urquell in the city (69 CZK). Or Kantýna for a modern Czech butcher-restaurant (burgers 200 CZK, steaks 350–500 CZK). Walk the illuminated Old Town Square and riverfront — Prague at night is stunning.

The Jewish Museum (350 CZK combined) covers six sites. Start at the Pinkas Synagogue — walls inscribed with 77,297 names of Czech Holocaust victims, each handwritten. The Old Jewish Cemetery has 12,000 visible tombstones layered 12 deep from the 15th century. The Spanish Synagogue's Moorish interior is gorgeous. The Old-New Synagogue (active since 1270) is Europe's oldest.

The Kafka Museum (260 CZK) on the Malá Strana riverfront traces Kafka's life through original manuscripts, letters, and a disturbing-but-brilliant immersive exhibition. Walk through the narrow Malá Strana lanes — find the Infant Jesus of Prague at the Church of Our Lady Victorious (free). Lunch at Café Savoy (since 1893, neo-Renaissance ceiling, mains 300–450 CZK).

Metro to Vyšehrad — the ancient citadel above the Vltava. Walk the ramparts for panoramic views of Prague's bridges and the Castle in the distance. The neo-Gothic Church of Saints Peter and Paul has a painted interior. The cemetery holds Czech greats — Dvořák, Mucha, Čapek. At sunset, the fortress walls glow and the Vltava turns gold below. Dinner in Nusle below the fortress.

The Mucha Museum (350 CZK) showcases Alfons Mucha's Art Nouveau posters, paintings, and decorative works. Walk to the Municipal House (Obecní dům) — the most lavish Art Nouveau building in Prague (free foyer, guided tour 390 CZK). The Kavárna Obecní dům cafe inside has a painted ceiling by Mucha. Walk Pařížská street for Art Nouveau building facades.

Veletržní Palace (Holešovice, 220 CZK) houses the National Gallery's modern and contemporary collection — Czech Cubism, Klimt, Schiele, Picasso, and excellent 20th-century Czech art. The functionalist building is impressive. Walk to Stromovka Park — Prague's largest park, once a royal hunting ground, now perfect for cycling and walking along tree-lined paths.

Žižkov is Prague's authentic pub district — dozens of pubs in a few blocks, almost no tourists. Start at U Kurelů (Balbínova 10, beer 45 CZK) for cheap, excellent beer. Walk to Bořivojova street for bar after bar. U Sadu (Škroupovo nám.) has a beer garden. BeerGeek Bar has 32 taps of Czech and international craft beers. The Žižkov Television Tower (300 CZK) has observation deck views.

Train from Prague Hlavní nádraží to Kutná Hora (1 hour, 130 CZK). This medieval silver-mining town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Start at the Sedlec Ossuary (Bone Church, 120 CZK) — a chapel decorated with the bones of 40,000 people arranged into chandeliers, coat of arms, and garlands. It is macabre, fascinating, and oddly beautiful. Photography is allowed.

Walk from Sedlec to the old town (2km, pleasant walk through the town). St. Barbara's Cathedral (120 CZK) is a Gothic masterpiece — flying buttresses, vaulted ceilings with mining-themed frescoes, and a terrace with views over the valley. The Italian Court (Vlašský dvůr, 120 CZK) was the royal mint where Prague groschen were minted. Lunch at a Kutná Hora restaurant — Czech classics for 150–250 CZK.

Train back to Prague. Explore Vinohrady — Prague's most elegant residential neighbourhood with Art Nouveau buildings, tree-lined streets, and excellent restaurants. Dinner at Vinohradský Parlament (Czech-international, mains 250–400 CZK) or Sansho (Asian-Czech fusion, tasting menu 1,800 CZK). Drinks at Beer Geek (craft beer) or wine bars on Mánesova street.

Holešovice is Prague's creative heart. DOX Centre for Contemporary Art (220 CZK) has provocative exhibitions and the Gulliver airship on the roof. Prague Market (Pražská tržnice) is a sprawling Vietnamese-Czech market — excellent phở for 130 CZK and fresh Asian ingredients. The converted Holešovice warehouses are filling with galleries, cafes, and coworking spaces.

Walk to Letná Park — the best panoramic view of Prague's bridges and Old Town skyline. The Letná Beer Garden serves a half litre for 55–70 CZK with this view. Walk along the Vltava south through Holešovice to Kampa Island — a peaceful island between the river and a millstream, with modern sculpture (David Černý's crawling babies on the TV Tower are also here).

Náplavka (Rašínovo nábřeží) riverfront is Prague's best evening scene — farmers' market on Saturdays, floating bars on boats, and locals drinking on the embankment steps. Try Bajkazyl (bike-workshop-bar), the boat bars, or simply bring a bottle and sit by the river. Dinner at Eska (modern Czech, bread bakery, mains 300–500 CZK) in Karlín nearby.

Karlín was devastated by floods in 2002 and has rebuilt into Prague's coolest food neighbourhood. Breakfast at Můj šálek kávy (My Cup of Coffee, specialty coffee), then walk the tree-lined Sokolovská and Křižíkova streets for Art Nouveau facades and hip restaurants. The Forum Karlín hosts concerts and events. Browse Paralelní Polis (crypto-anarchist cafe) for Prague's most unusual coffee stop.

Funicular from Malá Strana up Petřín Hill (40 CZK, included with transit pass). The Petřín Lookout Tower (150 CZK) is a miniature Eiffel Tower with 360° views. Walk through the rose garden and the mirror maze (75 CZK, surprisingly fun). The Strahov Monastery Library (150 CZK) at the top has two baroque halls — the Theological and Philosophical halls are among the most beautiful rooms in Europe.

Prague is a music city. Attend a concert at the Rudolfinum (from 200 CZK) for the Czech Philharmonic, the Estates Theatre (where Mozart premiered Don Giovanni in 1787, from 500 CZK), or a church concert at St. Nicholas (from 400 CZK). For jazz, Jazz Dock on the riverside (cover 200–350 CZK) has nightly performances. Dinner before at Café Imperial (Art Deco tiled interior, mains 300–450 CZK).

Start at the Strahov Monastery (library 150 CZK) — the Theological and Philosophical halls have baroque ceiling frescoes and floor-to-ceiling ancient books. The monastery has its own brewery — Klášterní pivovar Strahov — where monks have brewed since the 13th century. A half litre of St. Norbert Amber (65 CZK) with views over Prague is a civilised morning activity.

For souvenirs: Bohemian crystal at Moser (Staré Město), marionettes from traditional puppet shops (Truhlář or U Loutky), Becherovka herbal liqueur (85 CZK at any potraviny), and Czech garnets from legitimate jewellers on Karlova. The Havelské tržiště (Havel's Market, Mon–Sun) has handicrafts and seasonal produce. One last trdelník (150 CZK) — the chimney pastry is technically Slovak but Prague has claimed it.

A Prague farewell deserves beer. One last visit to your favourite pub — U Fleků (since 1499, dark lager, 130 CZK with oompah show) for the tourist version, or U Kurelů in Žižkov for the local version (45 CZK). Walk Charles Bridge one last time at night when it is quiet and magical. Prague Airport is 40 minutes by Airport Express bus from Hlavní nádraží (100 CZK).