Prague 3-day itinerary

Prague Castle (short circuit 250 CZK) is the world's largest ancient castle. St. Vitus Cathedral dominates — the Mucha stained glass window (depicting Slavic saints) is mesmerising in morning light. Walk the Old Royal Palace with its incredible Vladislav Hall, then Golden Lane — tiny colourful houses once home to alchemists, now small museums (Kafka lived at No. 22). Allow 2–3 hours.

Walk down through the castle gardens (free, beautiful views) to Malá Strana — Prague's baroque quarter. The Church of St. Nicholas (100 CZK) has the most opulent baroque interior in Prague. Walk to the Lennon Wall (Velkopřevorské náměstí) — constantly repainted with peace messages since the 1980s. Cross Charles Bridge for Old Town. Lunch at Lokál Dlouhááá (svíčková 249 CZK, tank Pilsner 59 CZK).

Watch the Astronomical Clock strike the hour (every hour, 9am–11pm — the apostle figures appear in the windows above). Walk to U Zlatého Tygra (Golden Tiger) for a Pilsner (69 CZK) in Havel's favourite pub. Dinner at Eska (New Czech cuisine, tasting menu 1,400 CZK, or à la carte 200–400 CZK) or Kantýna for modern Czech butcher-restaurant food. The illuminated riverfront at night is magical.

The Jewish Museum in Prague (350 CZK combined ticket) covers six sites — the Old Jewish Cemetery (12,000 visible tombstones layered 12 deep from the 15th century), the Pinkas Synagogue (walls inscribed with 77,297 names of Czech Holocaust victims), the Spanish Synagogue (extraordinary Moorish interior), and the Old-New Synagogue (the oldest active synagogue in Europe, since 1270).

The Mucha Museum (350 CZK) showcases Alfons Mucha's Art Nouveau masterpieces — the original Sarah Bernhardt posters, the Slav Epic sketches, and his legacy. Walk Kafka's Prague — his birthplace (náměstí Franze Kafky), the rotating head sculpture at Quadrio mall, and the Kafka Museum in Malá Strana (260 CZK). Lunch at Café Louvre (since 1902, Kafka and Einstein were regulars, mains 250–400 CZK).

Metro to Vyšehrad — the ancient fortress above the Vltava with panoramic views, the neo-Gothic Church of Saints Peter and Paul, and the Vyšehrad Cemetery (Dvořák, Mucha, Čapek are buried here). Walk the ramparts at sunset. Then metro to Žižkov — Prague's grittiest, most authentic bar neighbourhood. U Kurelů (Balbínova 10) serves great Czech beer for 45 CZK. Bars line Bořivojova street.

Holešovice is Prague's creative hub. The DOX Centre for Contemporary Art (220 CZK) has cutting-edge exhibitions and a rooftop airship sculpture. Walk to the Vltavská waterfront area for street art and converted industrial spaces. Prague Market (Pražská tržnice) is a sprawling Vietnamese-Czech market — excellent phở for 130 CZK and fresh produce. Coffee at Kavárna co hledá jméno (the cafe looking for a name).

Walk to Letná Park — the hill above the Vltava with the most spectacular panoramic view of Prague's bridges and the Old Town skyline. The metronome sculpture (where a giant Stalin statue once stood) is the focal point. Letná Beer Garden (Letenský zámeček) serves excellent Gambrinus and Staropramen with this view — a half litre for 55–70 CZK. Bring a picnic if you prefer.

Náplavka riverfront (along the Vltava south of the National Theatre) is Prague's best evening gathering spot — farmers' market (Saturday), floating bars on river boats, and locals drinking on the embankment steps. Try Bajkazyl (bike-repair-turned-bar) or a riverboat bar. Farewell dinner at Nota Bene (modern Czech, mains 300–500 CZK) or La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise for a splurge (Czech tasting menu, 3,500 CZK).