Petra 3-day itinerary

Enter at 6am and walk the 1.2km Siq in near solitude — the narrow canyon walls glow pink and orange as the sun rises. Small carvings of camels and Nabataean deities line the walls. The Treasury appears dramatically at the end, 40 metres of carved sandstone glowing in the morning light. Sit on the rocks opposite and watch the facade change colour. Explore the Treasury close up and notice the bullet holes from Bedouin treasure hunters.

Walk past the Street of Facades — rows of carved tomb entrances — to the Roman Theatre, which seated 3,000 spectators carved directly into the rock face. Cross to the Royal Tombs on the eastern cliff: the Urn Tomb (now a Byzantine church), the Silk Tomb with swirling sandstone colours, and the Palace Tomb with its elaborate Roman-style facade. Climb into the Urn Tomb for views across the valley and incredible acoustics.

On Monday, Wednesday, or Thursday nights, return for Petra by Night (JOD 17). Walk the Siq lit by 1,500 candles to find the Treasury illuminated by a sea of luminarias. Bedouin musicians play traditional instruments while you sit on rugs drinking sweet tea. The starlit canyon and candlelit Treasury create an atmosphere unlike anything else on earth. The experience lasts about 90 minutes. Book at your hotel or the Visitor Centre.

Start early for the 850-step climb to the Monastery — Petra's largest monument at 47 metres wide and 48 metres tall. The trail winds through narrow sandstone gorges with Bedouin stalls selling jewellery and cold drinks. At the top, the Monastery dwarfs everything — carved in the 1st century as a Nabataean temple. Walk past it to the stunning viewpoint overlooking Wadi Araba, the Negev desert, and on clear days, the mountains of Sinai.

Descend and take the High Place of Sacrifice trail — a steep climb to a plateau where Nabataeans performed religious ceremonies. Two obelisks carved from the mountaintop mark the altar site. The panoramic views over Petra are the best in the entire site. Descend via the Wadi Farasa route past the Garden Tomb, the Roman Soldier Tomb (with its uniquely colourful interior), and the Renaissance Tomb back to the main valley floor.

Arrange a Bedouin dinner through your hotel or the Visitor Centre. Local Bedouin families host meals in their camps near Petra — zarb (underground barbecue) cooked for hours in sand pits, served with flatbread, hummus, and sweet sage tea. The Bdoul tribe are the original inhabitants of Petra, relocated from the caves in 1985. Their stories of growing up inside the ancient city are fascinating. Expect JOD 15–25 per person.

Taxi (JOD 10) to Little Petra — 9km north of Wadi Musa. This miniature version of Petra was a suburb and caravan stopover on the Nabataean trade routes. Enter through a short siq to find carved temples, banquet halls with original painted ceilings (the Painted House has rare 2,000-year-old frescoes), and stairways to nowhere. It is free to enter, usually deserted, and gives a sense of what Petra felt like before mass tourism.

Hike the back trail from Little Petra into Petra itself — a stunning 3-hour walk through desert canyons used by Nabataean traders. The trail descends through Wadi Muthlim with dramatic narrows before emerging at the Monastery from above. You will need a local Bedouin guide (JOD 30–50, arrange at Little Petra). This is Petra's most spectacular approach and avoids the main entrance entirely. Carry plenty of water and snacks.

Re-enter Petra in the late afternoon for golden hour at the Treasury — the light between 4–5pm turns the facade deep orange. The crowds thin dramatically after 3pm and you can photograph the Treasury without hundreds of people. Walk the Siq one final time as shadows lengthen and the canyon grows cool. Farewell dinner at My Mom's Recipe in Wadi Musa — home-cooked Jordanian food (JOD 5–8) that feels like eating at a local's home.