Day 1: Arrival & Itsukushima Shrine
Ferry to Miyajima & First Impressions
Arrive at Miyajimaguchi station and take the JR ferry (10 minutes, covered by JR Pass) across to Miyajima Island. As the ferry approaches, the floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine comes into view — one of the most iconic sights in Japan. Check into your accommodation and orient yourself to the island's compact layout. The main village, shrine, and trails are all within walking distance.
Itsukushima Shrine & Treasure Hall
Visit Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site built in the 6th century and rebuilt in its current form in the 12th century by the powerful Taira no Kiyomori. The shrine complex extends over the tidal flats on wooden stilts with connected corridors, a Noh theatre stage, and multiple pavilions. The adjacent Treasure Hall houses scrolls, fans, armour, and swords dedicated by feudal lords over the centuries.
Sunset Torii & Ryokan Dinner
Watch the sunset from the shrine shoreline as the light turns the torii gate and the Inland Sea golden. After dark, the gate and shrine are illuminated softly. Dine at your ryokan — traditional multi-course Japanese dinner served in your room, featuring local seafood, seasonal vegetables, and Miyajima specialities like anago (conger eel) and local oysters.
Day 2: Mount Misen Full Exploration
Momijidani Trail to Summit
Hike the Momijidani trail through ancient maple and cedar forest to the summit of Mount Misen (535m). The 90-minute ascent follows a boulder-strewn stream through primary forest that has been protected for centuries. Near the summit, visit the Eternal Flame Hall where a fire has burned for 1,200 years since Kobo Daishi's meditation, and the Sankido Hall with its panoramic terrace. The summit observatory gives 360-degree views across the Seto Inland Sea and its hundreds of islands.
Descent via Daisho-in Trail
Descend via the Daisho-in trail, which passes through a different section of the primeval forest with larger boulders and rougher terrain. The trail emerges at the back of Daisho-in Temple. Explore the temple complex thoroughly — the Henjokutsu Cave, the spinning prayer wheels, and the hundreds of Jizo statues in knitted caps are deeply atmospheric.
Momijidani Park & Local Dining
Walk slowly through Momijidani Park where wild deer rest under the maple canopy. In the evening, explore the quiet village lanes for a small izakaya or restaurant. Try anago-meshi (conger eel over rice) — Miyajima's signature dish — or grilled oysters with a cold Japanese beer. The island after dark is profoundly peaceful with the sound of waves and temple bells.
Day 3: Sea Kayaking & Tidal Flats
Sea Kayaking Around the Torii Gate
Join an early morning sea kayak tour that paddles from the island's beach around the coastline and through the floating torii gate. Paddling beneath the massive vermillion pillars from water level is a perspective few visitors experience. The tour continues along the island's forested southern coast, passing rocky coves and quiet inlets.
Low Tide Exploration & Beach Time
If the tide is low, walk across the exposed sand and mud flats to the base of the torii gate. The massive camphor-wood pillars are encrusted with barnacles and the wooden structure is even more impressive up close. Explore the tidal pools and the coastline south of the shrine, where quieter beaches offer swimming spots with views back to the mainland.
Omotesando Food Tour
Spend the evening grazing along Omotesando Street. Try freshly-baked momiji manju in unusual flavours (cheese, chocolate, matcha), grilled oysters, takoyaki (octopus balls), and soft-serve ice cream in local flavours. Pick up omamori (protective charms) from the shrine's gift shop and wooden shamoji (rice paddles) — Miyajima is considered their birthplace.
Day 4: Hiroshima Peace Memorial
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Take the ferry and train into Hiroshima (45 minutes total). Visit the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, centred on the A-Bomb Dome — the skeletal ruin of the only building left standing near the bomb's hypocentre. Walk through the park past the Memorial Cenotaph, the Flame of Peace (which will burn until all nuclear weapons are eliminated), and the Children's Peace Monument festooned with thousands of colourful paper cranes.
Peace Memorial Museum
Spend the afternoon in the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, which was fully renovated and reopened with a deeply personal focus on individual stories of survivors (hibakusha). The exhibits are unflinching and emotionally powerful. The museum takes 2-3 hours to absorb properly. Afterward, walk through the park's gardens and along the riverside to decompress.
Hiroshima Okonomiyaki
Eat Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki for dinner — layered savoury pancakes with cabbage, yakisoba noodles, pork, and egg, griddled in front of you. Okonomi-mura in central Hiroshima has 24 stalls on multiple floors, each with their own recipe. The dish costs 800-1,200 yen and is deeply satisfying after an emotional day. Return to Miyajima on the evening ferry.
Day 5: Omoto Trail & Island Beaches
Omoto Trail — The Quiet Route
Hike the Omoto trail, the least-used of Mount Misen's three trails. Starting from the Omoto Shrine on the island's west side, this route climbs through dense forest with virtually no other hikers. The trail is rougher and steeper than Momijidani but rewards with solitude and old-growth forest. Connect with the summit trail network near the top.
Island Beaches & Southern Coast
Explore the island's southern and western coastline, where small beaches and rocky coves offer swimming and sunbathing away from the tourist crowds. Tsutsumigaura Beach on the island's south side has a free campsite and is popular with local families in summer. The coastal paths offer views of passing cargo ships and fishing boats on the Inland Sea.
Night Walk & Stargazing
After dinner, take a night walk through the empty village and along the shrine shoreline. With minimal light pollution (the island has no streetlights in many areas), the stars over the Inland Sea are remarkably clear. The illuminated torii gate reflecting on the calm water is one of Miyajima's most ethereal sights. Listen to the waves, the temple bells, and the occasional call of deer in the forest.
Day 6: Iwaso Onsen, Craft & Culture
Onsen & Slow Morning
Enjoy a slow morning with an onsen (hot spring bath) at your ryokan or the historic Iwaso inn, one of the oldest ryokans on the island. The mineral-rich waters are deeply relaxing, especially after days of hiking. Follow with a traditional Japanese breakfast — grilled fish, rice, miso soup, pickles, and tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) — a ritual that sets the pace for a gentle day.
Shamoji Workshop & Craft Shopping
Visit a shamoji (rice paddle) workshop to see how Miyajima's most famous craft product is made — the wooden paddles have been carved here since the 18th century. Browse the smaller artisan shops off Omotesando for hand-carved wooden items, Miyajima-bori (carved lacquerware), and ceramic pieces. Try making your own momiji manju at one of the bakeries that offers hands-on experiences.
Final Sunset & Farewell Dinner
Watch your last sunset from a different vantage point — the hill behind Daisho-in Temple or the beach south of the shrine offer alternative perspectives on the torii gate at golden hour. Have a farewell dinner of the island's specialities: a kaiseki course featuring anago, oysters, local vegetables, and seasonal delicacies, paired with local sake.
Day 7: Departure & Nearby Temples
Dawn at the Shrine & Final Walk
Wake for a final dawn visit to the shrine — if you have timed your stay right, the combination of tide, light, and solitude at sunrise is the most memorable experience on the island. Take a final stroll through the village, say goodbye to the deer, and pick up last-minute momiji manju for the journey.
Senjokaku & Five-Storey Pagoda
Before catching the ferry, climb the hill above the shrine to Senjokaku (the Hall of One Thousand Tatami Mats) — an enormous unfinished wooden hall commissioned by Toyotomi Hideyoshi in 1587. The open-sided structure is built from massive camphor pillars and offers shaded views over the shrine, the torii gate, and the sea. Adjacent is the elegant five-storey pagoda, blending Japanese and Chinese architectural styles.
Departure & Onward Journey
Take the ferry back to the mainland and catch the Shinkansen (bullet train) from Hiroshima station onward — Tokyo is 4 hours east, Kyoto 2 hours, and Fukuoka 1 hour west. Alternatively, continue exploring western Honshu with visits to the gardens of Okayama, the art islands of Naoshima, or the historic town of Onomichi along the Shimanami Kaido cycling route.