Miyajima Island 3-day itinerary

Arrive on the first ferry from Miyajimaguchi to see the floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine in the soft morning light. At high tide, the massive vermillion gate stands in water with the shrine complex behind it — the defining image of Miyajima and one of Japan's Three Most Scenic Views. Explore the shrine's connected pavilions and corridors built on stilts over the tidal flats, watch the wild deer wander through the grounds, and visit the treasure hall housing ancient scrolls and armour dedicated by samurai clans over centuries.

Walk Omotesando Shopping Street, the island's main pedestrian lane from the ferry terminal to the shrine. The street is lined with shops selling momiji manju — maple leaf-shaped cakes filled with red bean paste, custard, matcha cream, or chocolate — baked fresh in iron moulds at every other stall. Sample grilled Miyajima oysters from the Inland Sea, known for their exceptional size and sweetness. Pick up a shamoji (rice paddle) souvenir — Miyajima is considered the birthplace of the wooden rice paddle, and enormous decorative versions line the street.

If the tide cycle allows, walk out across the exposed sand flats at low tide to stand beneath the towering torii gate — the barnacle-encrusted pillars are enormous up close. As darkness falls, the shrine and torii gate are illuminated with warm lighting, creating a completely different atmosphere from the daytime visit. The island empties of day-trippers by early evening, so staying overnight gives you the rare experience of Miyajima at its most peaceful. Dine at a ryokan (traditional inn) or a small izakaya serving local seafood.

Hike to the summit of Mount Misen (535m) via the Momijidani trail — a forested 90-minute ascent through ancient cedar and maple trees that follows a stream through Momijidani (Maple Valley) Park. The trail passes through primeval forest that has been protected for centuries as sacred ground. Near the summit, the Eternal Flame Hall houses a fire said to have been burning continuously for 1,200 years since Kobo Daishi (the founder of Shingon Buddhism) lit it during meditation. The summit observatory offers 360-degree views of the Seto Inland Sea.

Descend via the Daisho-in trail to reach the temple of the same name at the base of Mount Misen. Daisho-in is the head temple of the Omuro branch of Shingon Buddhism and one of the most visually rich temple complexes in Japan. Hundreds of miniature Jizo statues wearing hand-knitted caps and scarves line the stairways, prayer wheels spin along the entrance path, and the Henjokutsu Cave contains 88 sacred icons representing the 88 temples of the Shikoku pilgrimage — walking through the dark cave is said to grant the same merit as the full pilgrimage.

Walk through Momijidani Park in the late afternoon light — the park contains over 700 maple trees that create a canopy of red and gold in November, but are beautiful in any season. Wild deer rest beneath the trees and are remarkably calm around visitors. In the evening, enjoy a kaiseki (multi-course traditional) dinner at your ryokan or find a small restaurant serving anago (conger eel), another Miyajima specialty — grilled, simmered, or served over rice in a lacquered box. The island is profoundly quiet after dark.

Wake early for a final sunrise view of the floating torii gate — the morning light turns the shrine complex gold against the still Inland Sea. If conditions allow, join a sea kayaking tour that paddles around the base of the torii gate and along the island's coastline, passing rocky coves and forested hillsides. Kayaking provides a perspective of the shrine and island that is impossible from land, and early morning is the calmest time on the water.

Take the ferry back to Miyajimaguchi and the JR Sanyo Line train 30 minutes into Hiroshima city. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum sits on the site of the atomic bombing of August 6, 1945. The A-Bomb Dome — the skeletal ruin of the former Industrial Promotion Hall — stands as the most powerful war memorial in the world. Walk through the museum's exhibits, the Children's Peace Monument draped in thousands of paper cranes, and the Memorial Cenotaph aligned to frame the Dome across the park.

Before returning to Miyajima or continuing your journey, eat Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki — a layered savoury pancake with cabbage, noodles, pork, and egg built up on a hot griddle, distinct from the Osaka mixed style. Okonomi-mura (Okonomiyaki Village) is a building with 24 stalls on multiple floors, each making their own version at counters where you sit right in front of the griddle. The dish is Hiroshima's soul food and costs around 800-1,200 yen for a filling meal.