Milan 3-day itinerary

Start at the Duomo di Milano — 600 years in construction, the third-largest church on Earth. The rooftop terraces (€14 lift, €10 stairs) let you walk among 135 Gothic spires with views to the Alps on clear days. The interior's stained glass stretches to the vaulted ceiling. Walk through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — mosaic floors, luxury shops, and the famous Prada store.

Pre-book Leonardo's Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie (€15, book 2–3 months ahead). Only 30 visitors every 15 minutes — this intimate, climate-controlled viewing is unforgettable. The painting is larger than expected and the deterioration adds poignancy. Lunch afterwards at Pescaria in Brera — Sicilian-style seafood sandwiches (€8–12) that attract huge queues.

The Navigli canal district is Milan's soul after dark. Most bars along Naviglio Grande offer aperitivo — a cocktail (€8–12) with an abundant buffet spread (6–9pm). Start at Mag Café, then walk the canal to Rita or Luca & Andrea for terrace drinks. The old workshops and coloured houses reflected in the still water at twilight are the most Instagrammable scene in the city.

Brera is Milan's most beautiful neighbourhood — cobblestone streets, ivy-covered palazzi, and independent galleries. Start at the Pinacoteca di Brera (€15) for Mantegna's Dead Christ, Raphael's Marriage of the Virgin, and Caravaggio works. Walk through the Orto Botanico di Brera — a hidden botanical garden (free). Coffee at Jamaica Bar, where artists have gathered since 1911.

Walk the Quadrilatero della Moda — Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga, Via Manzoni, and Corso Venezia form Milan's fashion rectangle. Even without buying, the window displays are art installations. Lunch at Panzerotti Luini near the Duomo — a Milan institution since 1888. Their fried panzerotti (€3) are a perfect portable lunch. The queue moves fast.

Isola is Milan's creative, gentrified neighbourhood north of Porta Nuova. Walk through the Bosco Verticale (Vertical Forest) towers — two residential buildings covered in 900 trees and 20,000 plants. Dinner on Via Paolo Sarpi — Milan's Chinatown with authentic Chinese, Sichuan, and dumpling houses (mains €8–14). Drinks at Frida or Blue Note jazz club.

Castello Sforzesco (free courtyard, museums €5) was the seat of Milan's Sforza dynasty. The museums inside hold Michelangelo's final, unfinished sculpture — the Rondanini Pietà — and a collection spanning Egyptian artefacts to Renaissance armour. Walk through Parco Sempione behind the castle to the Arco della Pace triumphal arch. The park is peaceful in the morning.

Take the metro to Fondazione Prada (€15) — a converted gin distillery turned contemporary art complex designed by Rem Koolhaas. The gold-clad Haunted House building is iconic. The permanent collection and rotating exhibitions are world-class. Have lunch at Bar Luce inside — designed by Wes Anderson, with pastel Formica furniture and Italian film nostalgia.

The Colonne di San Lorenzo — 16 Roman columns from the 3rd century — are Milan's unofficial gathering spot. Every evening, locals sit on the steps with €2 beers and spritz from the surrounding bars. Walk through Porta Ticinese to the Navigli canals. For dinner, try Taglio (deli-restaurant, charcuterie boards €12–16) or Osteria dei Vecchi Sapori for traditional Milanese food.