Luxor 7-day itinerary

Cross to the West Bank at 6am by local ferry (E£5). Head to the Valley of the Kings (E£600, 3 tombs). Start with the tombs of Ramesses IV (vivid astronomical ceiling), Ramesses IX (beautiful entrance corridor), and Merneptah (massive sarcophagus still in place). The valley holds 63 known tombs — pharaohs chose this hidden valley for 500 years to protect their burials from grave robbers.

Drive to the Temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahari (E£240) — the three-terraced mortuary temple of Egypt's most successful female pharaoh. The colonnaded terraces rise against sheer limestone cliffs in one of the most dramatic architectural settings in the ancient world. The reliefs on the middle terrace depict the famous trading expedition to the Land of Punt. The upper terrace has a sanctuary to Amun.

Return to the East Bank and walk the Nile Corniche at sunset. The West Bank mountains glow amber and pink as the sun drops behind the Theban necropolis — the same sunset the pharaohs watched. Dinner at Sofra — a restored traditional house serving excellent Egyptian cuisine on a rooftop terrace (E£150–300). Try molokhia soup and grilled kofta.

Arrive at Karnak (E£450) at 6am opening. Walk through the Avenue of Ram-headed Sphinxes to the First Pylon. The Great Hypostyle Hall is staggering — 134 columns up to 24 metres tall, covered in hieroglyphics and battle scenes. Continue to the obelisks of Hatshepsut (the tallest standing at 29.5 metres), the Sacred Lake, and the festival hall of Thutmose III with its unusual columns shaped like tent poles.

Visit the Luxor Museum (E£300) — a superbly curated collection including royal mummies, the Luxor Cachette statuary, and wall blocks from Akhenaten's dismantled Aten temple. The museum is air-conditioned and uncrowded. Lunch at Oasis Café on the Corniche (E£100–200). In the afternoon heat, rest at your hotel or explore the Luxor souk along Television Street for spices, alabaster, and cotton clothing.

Enter Luxor Temple (E£360) after sunset. The floodlit columns, the colossal seated statues of Ramesses II, and the Abu el-Haggag Mosque built into the ancient structure create a magical layering of civilisations. The court of Amenhotep III with its papyrus-bud columns is the highlight. Walk the illuminated Avenue of Sphinxes back towards Karnak — the 2.7km processional route with 1,350 sphinxes was restored and reopened in 2021.

Pre-book a hot air balloon flight (E£3,000–5,000 per person). Hotel pickup at 4:30–5:00am for a sunrise launch from the West Bank. Float over the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut's temple, the Ramesseum, and the Colossi of Memnon as the Nile valley wakes below you. The patchwork of sugar cane fields, the desert mountains, and the river create an extraordinary panorama. Flights last 30–45 minutes.

Visit the Valley of the Queens (E£160) — burial site of royal wives and princes. The tomb of Nefertari (E£2,000 extra) is the most beautiful painted tomb in Egypt — every surface covered in vibrant scenes of the queen with Isis, Hathor, and Osiris. Then explore the Tombs of the Nobles (E£100–200 per group) — these less-visited tombs depict daily life rather than the afterlife: hunting, fishing, banquets, and musicians.

Explore the village of Qurna on the West Bank — a Nubian-influenced community where many families have lived for generations among the ancient tombs. Visit the Marsam Hotel terrace for sunset views and local conversation. Return to the East Bank for dinner at Al Sahaby Lane — rooftop restaurant with Nile views and solid Egyptian-international food (E£200–400).

Visit Medinet Habu (E£240) — the mortuary temple of Ramesses III and one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt. The massive walls retain vivid original colour — blues, reds, and yellows from 3,100 years ago. The battle reliefs depicting Ramesses III defeating the Sea Peoples are extraordinary. The temple is far less crowded than Karnak despite being equally impressive. The Migdol Gate entrance is unique in Egyptian architecture.

Walk to the Ramesseum (E£200) — the mortuary temple of Ramesses II with the fallen colossus that inspired Shelley's poem. The massive fallen statue (originally 17 metres tall, weighing 1,000 tonnes) lies among the ruins. The remaining Osirid pillars and the astronomical ceiling in the hypostyle hall are beautiful. Continue past the Colossi of Memnon (free) — the two 18-metre seated figures of Amenhotep III.

Take a motorboat (E£100–200) or felucca to Banana Island — a small island in the Nile covered in banana plantations. Walk through the shady groves, sample fresh bananas and sugar cane juice, and enjoy the quiet escape from the city. Return for dinner at the 1886 restaurant in the Winter Palace hotel for a splurge (E£500–800) — colonial elegance with Nile-facing gardens.

Hire a private car (E£1,500–2,000 return) or join a tour for the day trip north to Dendera (60km). The Temple of Hathor (E£240) is one of the best-preserved temples in Egypt — the Hathor-headed columns, the ceiling with the zodiac (the original is in the Louvre, a cast remains), and the rooftop chapel are magnificent. Uniquely, you can access the roof for panoramic views and the underground crypts with vivid reliefs.

Continue north to Abydos (160km from Luxor) — one of the most sacred sites in ancient Egypt. The Temple of Seti I (E£200) contains the finest relief carvings in Egypt — they look like they were carved yesterday. The King List on the Gallery of Lists wall shows 76 pharaohs in cartouches. The Osireion behind the temple — a mysterious underground structure flooded with water — is one of the oldest buildings in Egypt.

Return to Luxor in the late afternoon (2–3 hour drive). Walk the Corniche at sunset and enjoy a relaxed dinner at Snack Time for budget shawarma (E£30–60) or Pizza Roma for surprisingly good pizza (E£80–150). Browse the night souk on Television Street for last-minute souvenirs — alabaster canopic jars, cotton scarves, and spice sets are good buys.

Return to the Valley of the Kings (E£600 for another 3 tombs) to see the tombs you missed. Consider the tomb of Thutmose III — a steep descent into a cartouche-shaped burial chamber with unique stick-figure decoration. Ramesses III has vivid scenes of daily life including harpists and food offerings. Ramesses VI has the most spectacular ceiling — a double astronomical chart stretching the full length of the burial corridors.

Visit Deir el-Medina (E£200) — the village where the tomb builders and artisans lived for 400 years. Their own tombs are small but exquisitely decorated — they painted their own burial chambers with the same skill they used for the pharaohs. The tomb of Sennedjem is a highlight. The adjacent temple of Hathor is small but complete. The village ruins give a rare glimpse into ordinary ancient Egyptian life.

Explore the East Bank beyond the tourist strip. Walk through the local markets behind the train station for a taste of everyday Luxor. Try kushari from a local shop (E£20–30) and fresh mango juice (E£10–20). The Luxor souk has better prices than the tourist shops along the Corniche. Evening tea at a local ahwa (café) — sipping sweet mint tea and watching domino games is quintessentially Egyptian.

Take a morning felucca sail (E£200–300/hour) south along the Nile. The river is calm in the morning with birdlife along the banks — egrets, herons, and hoopoes. Stop at Banana Island for fresh sugar cane juice and a walk through the plantation groves. The felucca captains know the river intimately — many families have sailed these waters for generations. The round trip takes 2–3 hours.

Visit the Mummification Museum (E£200) on the Corniche — a small but fascinating collection explaining the mummification process with actual mummies and tools. The human and animal mummies are well-presented. Spend the afternoon souvenir shopping — the best buys in Luxor are alabaster (carved in workshops on the West Bank), cotton clothing, spices, and replica antiquities. The Habiba Gallery near the Winter Palace has quality crafts.

Final dinner at Al Moudira hotel (E£400–600) for a beautiful setting in a Moorish-style palace with gardens, or keep it local at Aisha restaurant for grilled meats and Nile views (E£100–200). Luxor airport (LXR) is 6km east of the city centre — taxi E£100–150. Night trains to Cairo or Aswan depart from Luxor station (E£200–800 depending on class and sleeper options).