Day 1: Kathmandu Highlights
Durbar Square & Old City
Start your day in Kathmandu Durbar Square, the ancient seat of Nepalese royalty and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Despite significant damage in the 2015 earthquake, the square remains a mesmerising collection of intricately carved wooden temples, pagodas, and palace courtyards. Walk through the Kumari Bahal to catch a glimpse of the living goddess Kumari from her window, then explore the narrow lanes of the old city — brick-paved alleys lined with tiny shrines, prayer wheels, and merchants selling spices, incense, and brass prayer bowls.
Swayambhunath — The Monkey Temple
Take a taxi or walk 3km west to Swayambhunath, the iconic Buddhist stupa perched on a hilltop overlooking the entire Kathmandu Valley. Climb the 365 weathered stone steps flanked by monkeys, prayer flags, and smaller stupas to reach the summit. The all-seeing eyes of Buddha painted on the golden spire gaze in all four cardinal directions. From the top, the panoramic view stretches across the sprawling valley to the Himalayan foothills on clear days. The surrounding monastery complex, butter lamp shrines, and spinning prayer wheels create an atmosphere of deep tranquility.
Thamel & Momo Feast
Wander into Thamel, Kathmandu's legendary traveller district. The narrow streets are packed with trekking gear shops, rooftop bars, bookshops, and restaurants serving every cuisine imaginable. Find a local momo restaurant and order steamed buffalo momos with fiery tomato achaar — this is Nepal's national dish and Kathmandu does it best. The backpacker atmosphere in Thamel is electric, with live music drifting from rooftop bars and travellers swapping stories over Everest beer.