Gjirokaster 3-day itinerary

Begin with a thorough exploration of Gjirokaster Castle — the fortress has been expanded by every civilisation that controlled the city, from Byzantine to Ottoman to Italian to Communist. The citadel's inner keep contains the military museum with its eclectic collection: Ottoman cannons, Italian WWII armaments, and the fuselage of a USAF reconnaissance plane forced to land in Albania in 1957. Walk the full perimeter of the castle walls for views in every direction — north to the Drinos gorge, south towards the Greek border, east to the Nemercka Mountains, and west across the fertile Drinos Valley.

Explore the Cold War tunnel beneath the castle — the eerie underground complex includes gas-proof doors, communication rooms, and dormitories designed to house officials during nuclear war. Hoxha's Albania built over 170,000 bunkers across the country and this tunnel was a key command centre. After emerging, walk to Zekate House — the grandest surviving tower house in Gjirokaster, with twin towers framing a panoramic balcony. The family who owns it offers tours of the elaborately painted interiors, carved wooden ceilings, and the defensive architecture that defined life in these fortified mountain homes.

Wander the Old Bazaar as shopkeepers close up and the cobblestoned square fills with locals drinking macchiato and raki. The 17th-century Bazaar Mosque anchors the lower end of the market. Find a traditional restaurant in the bazaar lanes for dinner: Gjirokaster's cuisine reflects its mountain location with hearty lamb dishes, pite (layered filo pastry with cheese or greens), and the unique qifqi rice balls. The stone buildings retain the day's heat and the evening atmosphere in the old town is magical — candle-lit tables, mountain air, and the castle illuminated above.

Drive 25km south to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), one of Albania's most extraordinary natural phenomena. A karst spring bubbles up from a depth of over 50 metres, creating a mesmerising deep blue circle surrounded by an electric turquoise rim — the "eye" effect. The water temperature is a constant 10°C year-round, flowing at 6,000 litres per second into a crystal-clear river shaded by ancient oak and sycamore trees. The short walk from the car park through the forest to the spring takes 15 minutes. Swimming is officially restricted to protect the site but the surrounding river pools are accessible.

Drive northeast into the mountains to Antigonea, the ruined Hellenistic city founded by King Pyrrhus of Epirus in 295 BCE and named after his first wife. The site sits on a mountain plateau at 600 metres with panoramic views across the Drinos Valley towards Gjirokaster. The excavated ruins include city walls, a stoa (covered colonnade), residential foundations, and a small museum displaying coins, pottery, and jewellery from the ancient settlement. Antigonea is rarely visited — you may have the entire site to yourself, with wildflowers growing through the ancient stones and eagles overhead.

Return to Gjirokaster for an evening exploring the atmospheric upper lanes of the old town. The stone houses are dramatically lit after dark and the narrow alleys feel like stepping back centuries. Walk up to the castle approach road for the best night view of the city cascading down the hillside in warm lamplight. Dinner in the upper old town: try lamb slow-cooked in a clay pot with local mountain herbs, grilled vegetables from the Drinos Valley, and thick Albanian coffee to finish.

Explore the Drinos Valley south of Gjirokaster — a fertile agricultural corridor lined with small villages, olive groves, and walnut orchards. Visit the village of Labova e Kryqit to see the Church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, one of the oldest churches in Albania dating to the 6th century, with fragments of original Byzantine floor mosaics. The valley is dotted with Hoxha-era concrete bunkers — now a surreal part of the pastoral landscape. Stop at a roadside stall for fresh honey, mountain tea, and handmade cheese from the local farms.

Drive 20km south to the hilltop town of Libohova, crowned by a fortress built by Ali Pasha of Ioannina in the early 19th century. The castle ruins sit on a dramatic crag overlooking the confluence of the Drinos and Bistrica rivers. Ali Pasha — the legendary "Lion of Ioannina" — controlled much of southern Albania and northern Greece from his power base in this region. The small town below the castle preserves Ottoman-era houses and a peaceful atmosphere far removed from any tourist trail. Lunch in Libohova at a simple local restaurant.

Return to Gjirokaster for a final evening in the UNESCO stone city. Browse the bazaar for souvenirs — hand-carved wooden items, embroidered textiles, and local honey make authentic gifts. Walk the old town lanes one last time as the evening call to prayer echoes off the stone walls and the castle glows above. A farewell dinner of pispili (cornbread with greens and feta), grilled lamb chops, and Permite wine — from one of Albania's best wine regions just 30km east — completes your Gjirokaster experience.