Dublin 7-day itinerary

Start at Trinity College to see the Book of Kells and the magnificent Long Room library (€18 combined). The 9th-century illuminated manuscript is mesmerising up close. Walk through Front Square, then head to Merrion Square — Georgian townhouses with iconic colourful doors, the Oscar Wilde statue, and the free National Gallery of Ireland with its Caravaggio and Jack B. Yeats collection.

Explore Dublin Castle's State Apartments (€8) — the heart of British rule for 700 years. Next door, the Chester Beatty Library (free) houses one of the finest collections of manuscripts, miniature paintings, and early texts from across Asia, the Middle East, and Europe. Lunch at Fade Street Social or grab a toastie at Grogan's pub on South William Street.

Wander Temple Bar's cobbled lanes — skip the overpriced pubs on Temple Bar Street itself and head to The Porterhouse for craft beers brewed on-site (pints from €5.50). For proper trad music, cross the river to The Cobblestone in Smithfield — sessions every night, no cover charge, and a crowd of locals who actually play. Dinner at Leo Burdock's for legendary fish and chips (€12).

Take the Luas Red Line or walk through the Liberties to the Guinness Storehouse (€26 online). Seven floors tracing the history of Ireland's most famous export, ending at the Gravity Bar — a 360-degree glass-walled bar at the top where your ticket includes a perfectly poured pint with panoramic city views. Learn to pull your own pint at the Guinness Academy (included).

Walk 15 minutes to Kilmainham Gaol (€8, must pre-book). The guided tour through the prison where leaders of the 1916 Rising were executed is one of the most powerful historical experiences in Ireland. The execution yard is haunting. Afterward, visit the Irish Museum of Modern Art (IMMA) next door — free, set in the beautiful Royal Hospital Kilmainham.

Head to Camden Street and Wexford Street — Dublin's best stretch for young locals. Start with tacos at 777 or ramen at Neon, then pub-crawl from Whelan's (live music venue) to Devitt's for trad, and Cassidy's for late-night pints. If you want cocktails, try Vintage Cocktail Club on Crown Alley — speakeasy style, ring the doorbell to enter.

Take the DART train from Connolly or Tara Street to Howth (30 minutes, €3.60 with Leap Card). Walk the Howth Cliff Path — a stunning 6km loop along dramatic sea cliffs with views of Ireland's Eye island and the Dublin Mountains. Seals bask on the rocks below, and wildflowers line the trail in summer. The harbour village has colourful fishing boats and seafood stalls.

Lunch at the Howth Market on the pier — fresh seafood chowder (€7), fish and chips, oysters, and smoked salmon from local fishers. Take the DART back to Dun Laoghaire — another gorgeous coastal town with a Victorian harbour, the People's Park, and views across Dublin Bay. Walk the East Pier for sunset views.

Head to Ranelagh and Rathmines — leafy southside suburbs where Dublin's young professionals live. Dinner at Kimchi Hophouse (Korean-Irish fusion, mains €14–18) or Musashi for sushi (€12–16). Drinks at The Hill on Ranelagh Road, or the Stella Cinema in Rathmines — a restored art deco cinema where you can watch films with cocktails in hand.

Take the St Kevin's Bus from Dawson Street (€20 return, 90 minutes) to Glendalough — a 6th-century monastic settlement nestled in a glacial valley in the Wicklow Mountains. The round tower, Celtic crosses, and two lakes surrounded by ancient oak forests are otherworldly. Walk the Green Road trail along the Upper Lake for the best views.

Hike the Spinc and Glenealo Valley trail (9km, 3 hours) — a boardwalk climbing through the forest to a ridge with panoramic views of both Glendalough lakes and the Wicklow Mountains stretching to the horizon. Pack lunch from Dublin or eat at the Glendalough Hotel (soup and sandwiches €10–14). The valley is one of Ireland's most photographed landscapes.

Bus back to Dublin by early evening. Head to Stoneybatter — Dublin's hippest neighbourhood, full of independent cafes, vintage shops, and excellent pubs. Dinner at L. Mulligan Grocer (gastropub with craft beers, mains €16–22) or Oxmantown for gourmet sandwiches. Pints at The Belfry or Walsh's — both proper old Dublin pubs with no pretension.

Rent a Dublin Bike (€3.50 for 3-day pass) and cycle to Phoenix Park — one of the largest enclosed city parks in Europe. Spot the wild fallow deer herd near the Papal Cross, visit the People's Garden, and find the Wellington Monument. The park has been here since 1662 and covers 707 hectares — larger than Central Park and Hyde Park combined.

Cycle back to the city centre. Visit the National Museum of Ireland on Kildare Street (free) — the Bog Bodies exhibition, with perfectly preserved 2,000-year-old remains found in Irish peat bogs, is unforgettable. Next door, the Natural History Museum (locals call it "The Dead Zoo") hasn't changed since Victorian times — taxidermy everywhere, creaky wooden cabinets, and an eerie charm.

Cross the Liffey to Capel Street — Dublin's most vibrant strip of restaurants and pubs. Start with food at Kimchi on Capel Street (Korean fried chicken, €14) or Sano Pizza (Neapolitan pies, €11–14). Drinks at Pantibar (LGBTQ+ friendly, always buzzing), The Big Romance for natural wines, or MVP for craft beer and ping pong.

DART south to Dalkey (35 minutes, €3.60) — a charming seaside village once home to Bono and Enya. Browse the independent bookshops and cafes on Castle Street, then hike Killiney Hill (20 minutes up) for what's often called the best view in Dublin — a sweeping panorama of Killiney Bay that locals compare to the Bay of Naples.

Head back to the city centre for the Creative Quarter — Drury Street, South William Street, and George's Street Arcade. Browse vintage at Tola Vintage, vinyl at Spindizzy Records, and books at The Winding Stair. Lunch at Brother Hubbard on Capel Street (Middle Eastern-Irish brunch, €12–16) or Lemon on South William Street for crepes (€8–12).

Visit EPIC — The Irish Emigration Museum in the Docklands (€16.50) — an interactive journey through the Irish diaspora that's far more engaging than you'd expect. Walk along Grand Canal Dock past the illuminated Bord Gais Energy Theatre designed by Daniel Libeskind. Dinner at Eatyard in the Docklands or Herbstreet for modern Irish food overlooking the water.

Bus or cycle to Glasnevin Cemetery — the final resting place of Michael Collins, Eamon de Valera, and many of Ireland's historical figures. The guided tour (€14) is riveting. Then walk next door to the National Botanic Gardens (free) — Victorian glasshouses, a rose garden, and 15,000 plant species spread across 19 hectares.

Head to Grafton Street for last-minute shopping and busker-watching — Dublin's busking tradition produced the likes of Glen Hansard and Damien Rice. Pop into Avoca on Suffolk Street for Irish woolens, or Kilkenny Shop for quality Irish crafts and design. Grab a farewell lunch at Cornucopia on Wicklow Street (vegetarian buffet, €14–16).

End your Dublin trip with a proper pub crawl. Start at Kehoe's on South Anne Street — mahogany snugs, stained glass, and one of the best pints in Dublin. Move to The Long Hall on South Great George's Street — a Victorian masterpiece unchanged since 1881. Finish at Mulligan's on Poolbeg Street, where the Guinness is legendary and the craic is mighty.