Bullet Train 3-day itinerary

Board the Odakyu Romancecar from Shinjuku Station — a panoramic sightseeing express that reaches Hakone-Yumoto in 85 minutes. The front observation car has floor-to-ceiling windows (book well ahead, these seats sell out). The train winds through the suburbs of western Tokyo before climbing into the Hakone mountains. Hakone-Yumoto is the gateway to the Hakone region, a volcanic area of hot springs, crater lakes, and mountain views.

Ride the Hakone Tozan switchback railway up to Gora, then the cable car and Hakone Ropeway over the volcanic valley of Owakudani — steaming sulphur vents where vendors sell black eggs boiled in the volcanic springs (eating one supposedly adds 7 years to your life). Continue the ropeway down to Lake Ashi and take the pirate ship replica ferry across the lake. On clear days, Mt Fuji dominates the horizon across the water.

End the day at one of Hakone's public onsen (hot spring baths). Hakone Yuryo offers outdoor baths surrounded by forest for around ¥1,500 entry. The ritual is simple — wash thoroughly at the seated shower stations before entering the communal bath. Tattoo-friendly facilities are increasingly common but check ahead. Soak in the naturally heated volcanic water as the mountain air cools around you. Stay overnight in a traditional ryokan (Japanese inn) for the full experience, or take the last Romancecar back to Shinjuku.

Head to the JR Pass exchange office at Tokyo Station to activate your Japan Rail Pass (¥50,000 for 7 consecutive days of unlimited JR travel including most Shinkansen). The pass covers Hikari and Kodama services on the Tokaido line but not the fastest Nozomi. The Hikari takes 2 hours 40 minutes to Kyoto — only 25 minutes slower than the Nozomi. Queue for an ekiben at the platform kiosks and board your reserved-seat carriage.

Arrive in Kyoto by midday and head straight to Fushimi Inari Taisha — the iconic shrine with thousands of vermillion torii gates winding up the forested hillside. The main path takes about an hour to hike to the summit, but most visitors only walk the first 20 minutes. Continue beyond the crowds for quieter sections and small mountaintop shrines with views over Kyoto. Afterwards, walk through the Higashiyama historic district — narrow lanes lined with wooden machiya townhouses, tea shops, and ceramics studios.

Walk through Gion, Kyoto's famous geisha district, as lanterns illuminate the traditional wooden facades along Hanamikoji Street. If you're fortunate, you may spot a maiko (apprentice geisha) heading to an evening engagement. Dinner at Nishiki Market — Kyoto's 400-year-old kitchen street — offers stalls selling yudofu (hot tofu), tsukemono (pickled vegetables), matcha desserts, and fresh sashimi. Most stalls close by 6pm, so arrive early or head to the Pontocho alley along the Kamo River for riverside dining.

Use your JR Pass for a day trip to Hiroshima — the Hikari Shinkansen covers the 340km in just 1 hour 40 minutes. Arrive by mid-morning and head to the Peace Memorial Park, a sobering and powerful complex centred on the A-Bomb Dome — the skeletal remains of the only structure left standing near the hypocentre. The Peace Memorial Museum (¥200 entry) has been extensively renovated and tells individual stories of the bombing through personal artefacts.

From Hiroshima Station, take the JR Sanyo line to Miyajimaguchi (25 minutes, covered by JR Pass) and the JR ferry (also covered) across to Miyajima Island. The vermillion torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine appears to float on the water at high tide — one of Japan's most photographed views. The island is home to wild deer that wander freely through the streets. Try momiji manju (maple-leaf-shaped cakes filled with red bean paste) from the many bakeries along the shopping street.

Before catching the Shinkansen back to Kyoto, try Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki — a layered savoury pancake with cabbage, pork, noodles, and egg grilled on a hot plate. Okonomimura near Hiroshima Station is a multi-floor building with dozens of small okonomiyaki stalls, each with counter seating where you watch the chef prepare your meal. A full okonomiyaki costs around ¥900–1,200. Board the evening Hikari back to Kyoto — the last service departs around 9pm.