Aswan 7-day itinerary

Motorboat (E£100–150 return) to Agilkia Island for the Temple of Isis at Philae (E£450). This Ptolemaic-Roman temple complex was the last functioning ancient Egyptian temple, only closed in 537 CE by Justinian. The court of Nectanebo, the birth house, and the sanctuary of Isis are beautifully preserved. Relief carvings show Ptolemaic pharaohs making offerings in the ancient Egyptian style despite being Greek rulers.

Take a local ferry (E£5) to Elephantine Island — inhabited for 5,000 years. The ruins of the Temple of Khnum (the ram-headed god), a Nilometer used to measure the annual flood, and the Aswan Museum (E£100) with local archaeological finds are on the southern tip. Walk through the Nubian village on the island — colourful houses, playing children, and friendly invitations for tea.

Walk the Aswan Corniche at sunset — the Nile is at its most beautiful here, wider and calmer than in Luxor or Cairo, with feluccas drifting past desert islands. Dinner at Makka restaurant on the Corniche for grilled Nile fish and mango juice (E£100–200). The pace of life in Aswan is noticeably slower than Cairo — this is Egypt at its most relaxed.

Take a felucca or motorboat to Kitchener's Island (E£50 entry). Lord Kitchener was given the island during the British occupation and filled it with tropical plants from across the Empire — Indian palms, African hardwoods, and rare orchids. The shady paths, birdsong, and river breezes make it a peaceful morning escape. The island is small — 1 hour is enough to see everything.

Hire a felucca for a 3-hour sail (E£600–800) through the First Cataract — the granite boulder rapids that marked the ancient border between Egypt and Nubia. The felucca navigates between smooth black rocks while the captain explains the river. Sail past the Aga Khan Mausoleum, the Monastery of St. Simeon (visible on the hillside), and the desert dunes that sweep down to the water. The contrast of blue Nile, black granite, and golden sand is stunning.

Attend a Nubian music performance — ask your hotel or the Nubian House restaurant for evening shows. Nubian music blends African rhythms with Arabic melodies and is distinctly different from Egyptian music. The hand drums (tar), oud, and call-and-response singing are infectious. Dinner at The Nubian House (E£100–250) for tagen stew, Nubian bread, and fresh Nile fish in a colourfully painted setting.

Taxi to the Aswan High Dam (E£100 entry, 12km south). Built with Soviet assistance in the 1960s, the dam controls the Nile flood and created Lake Nasser — 550km long. Views from the top stretch across the lake. Then visit the Unfinished Obelisk (E£200) — a 42-metre granite obelisk abandoned in the quarry after cracking. The chisel marks and wedge holes reveal the ancient quarrying technique used to create every obelisk in Egypt.

Cross to the West Bank by motorboat (E£100–150) to visit the Nubian villages of Siou and Koti. Houses painted in vivid turquoise, orange, and yellow line the sandy paths. You'll be invited for sweet tea and shown baby crocodiles (E£20) — Nubians have kept crocodiles for centuries as protective symbols. Buy handmade Nubian crafts — beaded jewellery, woven baskets, and embroidered textiles directly from the artisans.

Visit the Nubian Museum (E£200) — a beautifully designed museum telling the story of Nubian civilization from prehistory to the displacement caused by the Aswan dams. Artifacts, reconstructed houses, and the story of the UNESCO temple relocations are moving and informative. Sunset drinks at the Old Cataract Hotel terrace (cocktails E£200–400) — the Nile view from here inspired Agatha Christie.

Depart Aswan at 3:30–4:00am in the convoy for the 280km drive through the Sahara (3–3.5 hours). Arrive at Abu Simbel as morning light illuminates the four colossal seated statues of Ramesses II — each 20 metres tall, carved from the cliff face. The Great Temple interior has Osirid pillars and wall reliefs of the Battle of Kadesh. Twice a year (Feb 22 and Oct 22), sunlight penetrates 60 metres to illuminate three of the four statues in the sanctuary.

Explore the Temple of Nefertari — one of only two temples in Egypt dedicated to a queen, with six 10-metre standing figures on the facade. Inside, Nefertari is crowned by goddesses in vivid colour. Walk to the Lake Nasser viewpoint behind the temples — the vast turquoise lake stretching to the Sudanese border is extraordinary. The UNESCO relocation museum tells the story of moving 20,000 tonnes of rock to save the temples in the 1960s.

Spend the evening in the Aswan Souk — the best market in Egypt for spices. Hibiscus (karkade), saffron, cumin, black seed, and Nubian perfumes are stacked in colourful mounds. The souk runs several blocks from the Corniche inland through covered alleys. Dinner at Salah al-Din rooftop restaurant (E£100–200) for grilled meats and cold Stella beer, or Bit Alkeir for traditional Nubian dishes (E£80–150).

Take a motorboat to the West Bank (E£50–100) and hike or camel ride (E£100–200) up to the Monastery of St. Simeon — a ruined 7th-century Coptic monastery set dramatically in the desert above the Nile. Once home to 300 monks, the massive mudbrick walls, church, and refectory are remarkably well-preserved. The desert landscape surrounding the monastery is stark and beautiful. Few tourists make the effort — you may have it to yourself.

Visit the Tombs of the Nobles (E£60) on the West Bank hillside — rock-cut tombs of ancient Aswan's governors and officials dating from the Old Kingdom to the Roman period. The tombs of Sarenput I and II have the best-preserved paintings. The hillside location gives panoramic views over the Nile, Elephantine Island, and the city. The climb up the sandy path is worth it for the views alone.

Attend the Philae Sound and Light Show (E£400) — widely considered the best Sound and Light Show in Egypt. The temple is illuminated on its island while a narrated history plays across the water. The combination of the island setting, the reflections on the Nile, and the ancient architecture creates a genuinely atmospheric experience. The motorboat ride to and from the island adds to the magic.

Take a motorboat (E£300–500 for the boat) from the High Dam area to Kalabsha Temple (E£100) — a Ptolemaic-Roman temple relocated to a promontory on Lake Nasser during the UNESCO salvage campaign. The temple of Mandulis (a Nubian sun god) is large and well-preserved, with relief carvings showing Roman emperors in Egyptian ceremonial dress. The setting on the lake shore is dramatic and peaceful. Few tourists visit.

Revisit the area around the old Aswan Dam (built by the British in 1902, 6km south of the city) — the views between the old and new dams are scenic. The Sculpture Park near the Fatimid Cemetery has modern Egyptian artwork in a desert setting. Walk through the Fatimid Cemetery itself — hundreds of mudbrick domed tombs from the medieval period stretching across the desert.

Book a Nubian cooking class through your hotel or a local guide (E£300–500) — learn to make tagen, Nubian bread, foul with Nubian spices, and karkade. It's a social experience as much as a culinary one. Alternatively, take a dinner cruise on a motorboat or felucca (E£400–800 with food) — floating on the Nile under the stars with Aswan's lights reflecting on the water.

Take a final morning felucca sail (E£200–300/hour) around the First Cataract. Aswan is excellent for birdwatching — egrets, herons, kingfishers, hoopoes, and Nile Valley sunbirds are common along the banks. The granite islands of the First Cataract create sheltered habitats. Binoculars are useful. The morning calm on the water with the desert mountains is the perfect farewell to Aswan.

Final souvenir shopping in the Aswan Souk. Best buys: dried hibiscus and spices (the best value in Egypt), Nubian handicrafts (beaded jewellery, woven baskets), cotton scarves, and Nubian perfume oils. The souk is less pressured than Luxor or Cairo — browsing is pleasant. Have a final lunch at Panorama restaurant for Nile views and grilled fish (E£100–200).

Farewell dinner at the Old Cataract Hotel terrace (E£400–800 for dinner) if you want a splurge — the most atmospheric dining spot in Egypt. Or keep it local at Emy restaurant for budget Egyptian food (E£60–120). Aswan airport (ASW) is 25km southwest — taxi E£200–300. Trains to Luxor (3 hours, E£40–100) and Cairo (13 hours overnight sleeper, $60–90) depart from Aswan station.