Aswan 3-day itinerary

Motorboat (E£100–150 return) to Agilkia Island for the Temple of Isis at Philae (E£450) — one of the most beautiful temples in Egypt, rescued from the rising Nile by UNESCO in the 1970s. The complex was the last functioning temple of ancient Egyptian religion, only closing in the 6th century CE. The court of Nectanebo, the birth house of Horus, and the sanctuary of Isis are highlights. Relief carvings are remarkably well-preserved.

Hire a felucca for a 2–3 hour sail (E£400–600) around the Aswan islands. Sail past the First Cataract — where granite boulders create rapids in the Nile, marking the ancient boundary of Egypt and Nubia. Circle Elephantine Island, pass the Aga Khan Mausoleum on the hillside (the Aga Khan III loved Aswan so much he chose to be buried here), and stop at Kitchener's Island Botanical Garden (E£50) — a shady retreat with tropical plants.

Walk through the Aswan Souk — the most atmospheric market in Egypt. The spice stalls sell hibiscus, saffron, cumin, dried mango, and Nubian perfumes at better prices than anywhere else in the country. The souk runs for several blocks from the Corniche inland. Dinner at Makka restaurant for grilled fish straight from the Nile (E£100–200) or The Terrace at the Old Cataract hotel for colonial splendour and river views (E£400–800).

Start at the Aswan High Dam (E£100) — the massive dam that controls the Nile's annual flood and created Lake Nasser, one of the world's largest artificial lakes. The views from the dam across Lake Nasser to the south and the Nile to the north are impressive. Then visit the Unfinished Obelisk (E£200) in the northern quarries — a 42-metre granite obelisk abandoned mid-carving after a crack appeared. It would have been the largest obelisk ever, weighing 1,200 tonnes.

Cross to the West Bank by motorboat (E£100–150) to visit the Nubian villages of Siou and Koti. The Nubians are an ancient people with their own language, music, and traditions. Their houses are painted in vivid colours with symbolic designs — crocodiles for protection, hands of Fatima for luck. You'll be invited for tea and to see baby crocodiles (E£20). The Nubian Museum in Aswan (E£200) provides excellent context on this ancient culture displaced by the dam.

Walk the Corniche to the Old Cataract Hotel — the legendary Victorian hotel where Agatha Christie wrote part of "Death on the Nile." Non-guests can drink on the terrace (cocktails E£200–400) with stunning Nile views at sunset. The river, the feluccas, Elephantine Island, and the West Bank desert create a perfect panorama. Dinner at Salah al-Din — a rooftop restaurant opposite the train station with solid Egyptian food and cold beer (E£100–200).

Join the convoy departing Aswan at 3:30–4:00am for the 280km drive south through the Sahara to Abu Simbel (3–3.5 hours). The convoy system groups all tourist vehicles together for the desert crossing. Arrive at the temples of Ramesses II as the morning light hits the four colossal statues (each 20 metres tall). The Great Temple interior has eight Osirid pillars and stunning wall reliefs of the Battle of Kadesh.

Explore the smaller Temple of Nefertari next to the Great Temple — one of only two temples in Egypt dedicated to a queen. The facade has six standing figures (four of Ramesses, two of Nefertari) each 10 metres tall. Inside, the vivid reliefs show Nefertari being crowned by Isis and Hathor. The UNESCO relocation story is told in a museum behind the temples — moving 20,000 tonnes of rock to save them from Lake Nasser is one of the greatest engineering feats of the 20th century.

Return to Aswan by mid-afternoon. Take a final felucca sunset sail (E£200–300/hour) on the Nile around the First Cataract. The granite boulders, the desert light, and the silence on the water are the essence of Upper Egypt. Farewell dinner at The Nubian House for traditional Nubian cuisine — try tagen (slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew) and fresh Nile fish with tahini (E£100–250).