Day 1: Besisahar to Chame — Entering the Gorge
Bus to Besisahar & Trail Begins
Take the early bus from Pokhara to Besisahar (3–4 hours, ~350 NPR), the official start of the Annapurna Circuit. Collect your TIMS card and Annapurna Conservation Area permit (ACAP) at the checkpoint — budget around $30 USD total. The first section follows the Marsyangdi River upstream through terraced rice paddies and rhododendron forest. Aim to reach Bahundanda (1,310m) by late morning for views across the valley.
Jagat to Chamje Gorge
The trail narrows dramatically past Jagat into the Marsyangdi gorge — sheer rock walls, suspension bridges, and thundering waterfalls mark the transition from subtropical lowlands to Himalayan terrain. The path crosses the river multiple times on swaying metal bridges. Stop for daal bhat at a teahouse in Tal (1,700m) — the wide flat valley with its sandy riverbed was once a glacial lake. Continue to Dharapani for the night.
First Night in Chame
Push on to Chame (2,670m), the administrative capital of Manang district and the first town with reliable electricity and ATMs — withdraw enough cash to last several days as machines become scarcer higher up. Settle into a teahouse (300–600 NPR per room) and warm up with a pot of ginger-lemon-honey tea — a circuit staple. The first Himalayan peaks are visible above the pine forest: Annapurna II (7,937m) looms to the south.
Day 2: Chame to Manang — The High Country
Pisang & the Upper Valley
Leave Chame at dawn to catch Annapurna II in morning alpenglow. The trail passes a dramatic curved rock face — over 1,500m of sheer cliff rising straight from the valley floor — before opening into the wide Paungda Danda plateau. Take the high route through Upper Pisang (3,300m) rather than the low valley trail: the hilltop monastery, prayer walls, and panoramic views of Pisang Peak and Chulu East make the extra ascent entirely worthwhile.
Braga Monastery & Arrival in Manang
From Pisang descend to the valley and follow the trail west toward Manang (3,519m). Stop at Braga village's monastery — one of the oldest on the circuit, perched dramatically on the cliff above the village. The interior holds centuries-old thangka paintings, butter sculptures, and a library of Tibetan texts. The head lama sometimes welcomes trekkers. Arrive in Manang by mid-afternoon for a full acclimatisation rest — do not ascend further on Day 2.
Acclimatisation Walk to Ice Lake
Even on a rest day in Manang, altitude medicine recommends climbing high and sleeping low. Hike to Ice Lake (4,600m) — a 4-hour return trip from Manang with views of the Annapurna III, Gangapurna, and Tilicho massifs. The lake itself is a frozen turquoise disc surrounded by glacial moraines. Back in Manang, attend the free daily altitude sickness talk at the Himalayan Rescue Association clinic — genuinely useful and potentially life-saving.
Day 3: Thorong La Pass & Muktinath Descent
Crossing Thorong La at Dawn
Wake at 4am and begin the ascent to Thorong La (5,416m) in darkness — this is the physical and emotional centrepiece of the entire circuit. The 1,800m climb from Thorong Phedi base camp takes 5–6 hours in thin air. Reach the highest point as dawn light hits the surrounding peaks: Dhaulagiri (8,167m) is visible to the west, Annapurna to the south. The pass prayer flags and cairns mark one of Asia's great trekking milestones.
Descent to Muktinath — the Sacred Temple
The descent from Thorong La to Muktinath (3,760m) drops 1,700m in roughly 3 hours — knees take a beating on the scree-covered path. Muktinath is one of the most sacred sites for both Hindus and Buddhists: 108 water spouts, a natural gas flame that burns beneath flowing water (the holy Jwala Mai shrine), and the Vishnu temple visited by pilgrims from across Nepal and India. Witness the ritual bathing at the spouts — deeply moving even for secular trekkers.
Muktinath to Jomsom — Mustang Plateau
Continue by jeep or on foot down the arid Mustang plateau to Jomsom (2,720m), where the landscape transforms completely: high-altitude desert, eroded ochre cliffs, and fierce Kali Gandaki winds that funnel through the world's deepest gorge. Jomsom has a domestic airport with daily flights to Pokhara (20 minutes, ~$100 USD) — a spectacular alternative to trekking back. Celebrate with an apple brandy, a local Mustang specialty, at any teahouse in town.