Day 1: Abu Simbel — Ramesses II's Colossal Temples
The Great Temple of Ramesses II
Arrive from Aswan via the 3:30am convoy (280km, 3–3.5 hours through the Sahara) or the 35-minute EgyptAir flight. The four colossal seated statues of Ramesses II — each 20 metres tall — carved directly from the cliff face are overwhelming in scale. Enter the temple to find eight Osirid pillars in the main hall and vivid wall reliefs depicting the Battle of Kadesh against the Hittites. The innermost sanctuary holds four seated gods — twice a year (Feb 22 and Oct 22) sunlight penetrates 60 metres to illuminate three of them.
Temple of Nefertari & the UNESCO Story
The smaller Temple of Nefertari next door is one of only two temples in ancient Egypt dedicated to a queen — a remarkable statement of her importance. Six standing figures (four of Ramesses, two of Nefertari) each 10 metres tall flank the entrance. Inside, Nefertari is crowned by Isis and Hathor in vivid colour. Visit the UNESCO museum behind the temples — in the 1960s, the temples were cut into 20,000 blocks and reassembled 65 metres higher to save them from Lake Nasser. The engineering is astonishing.
Lake Nasser Sunset & Return
If staying overnight, walk along the Lake Nasser shore at sunset — the vast turquoise lake stretching towards Sudan, with the temple silhouettes against the fading sky, is magnificent. The Abu Simbel village has a handful of simple restaurants — Eskaleh Nubian Ecolodge serves Nubian cuisine with lake views (E£100–200). Most visitors return to Aswan the same day (convoy departs around 1–2pm). The drive back through the Sahara at sunset has its own stark beauty.
